OFF THE BIKE

WESTERN WALL

Reminders of Hitler’s ultimately

futile attempts to resist the liberation of Europe and bombard London with unguided flying bombs are sprinkled around the area between Calais and Boulogne at La Coupole, the Blockhaus and the Todt battery. Before going into the Batterie Todt museum itself, consider trekking through the woods to the other decayed batteries that you can see from the coast road for an intimate visit. (www.batterietodt.com)

AMIENS

Head towards the Perret Tower, built around 1950 and for many years, the tallest skyscraper in Europe. Then drop down to the Saint-leu region below the cathedral, a region of canals lined with small houses, cafes and restaurants by the river for you to cool off a little. (www.visit-amiens.com)

ARRAS AND VIMY RIDGE

The town centre was painstakingly reconstructed in its Flemish style after WWI with two large open squares complete with mansions above arcades, where you can relax with a coffee. Descend 20m deep into the Wellington Tunnels to visit the shelters where thousands of British soldiers hid before the Battle of Arras in 1917. Excellent audio guides and displays. Rue Arthur Deletoille, 62000, Arras. (www.explorearras.com)

SOMME BATTLEFIELD

Just north of Albert, it’s hard to believe so much carnage was concentrated in such a small area, as you can ride along the Downland ridge from the Thiepval Memorial to the Ulster Tower, Pozieres and the Lochnagar Crater in 15 minutes. Use the Commonwealth War Graves Commission site (cwgc. org) to search for relatives, as Thiepval has 72,242 names engraved on it. Grab a refreshing cuppa at Le Tommy bar/ restaurant in Pozieres. (www.visit-somme.com)

SAINT-QUENTIN

POST-WWI reconstruction means this town is a surprisingly pleasant mix of Gothic and Art-deco architecture with an extensive ‘Champs-elysées’ area of garden and parkland too. (www. saint-quentin-tourisme.fr)

LAON

One of the earliest Gothic cathedrals in France is visible for miles around on its hill which gives you good views too, especially from a walk on the ramparts or from its mini-tram system if you don’t fancy stretching your legs. (www.tourisme-paysdelaon. com)

COMPIEGNE

Known as the site of the signing of the WWI Armistice and the French surrender in 1940 in a railway carriage in nearby woods, Compiégne’s Palace contains two museums - Vehicles and Tourism and Napoleon III - as well as English-style gardens. (www.compiegne-tourisme.en)

EPERNAY

Remember to spit and you can ride and enjoy a visit to the Boutique Champagne Janisson Baradon et Fils, tasting Champagne while sitting outside the store in the sunshine. Less commercial than Moët et Chandon et al. (www.champagne-janissonbaradon.com)

LA FERTE-MILON

Gustave Eiffel designed bridges as well as towers and you can stroll over his ironwork bridge here into a park by the canal with views of La Ferte’s 15th-century castle ruins.