Ta­ble run­ner

Simply Sewing - - LAID-BACK DINING -

YOU WILL NEED

Main fab­ric: see in­struc­tions for de­tails

Con­trast fab­ric: see in­struc­tions for de­tails

Ba­sic sewing kit

MA­TE­RI­ALS USED

The fab­rics used are from Han­tex Li­nens.

Main fab­ric: Ash Grey Spots, Nat­u­ral. Ref: LT126-7.

Con­trast fab­ric: Nat­u­ral Spots, Ash Grey. Ref: LT101-7.

For stock­ists visit www.han­tex.co.uk/linen

NOTES

Use a 1cm (!⁄"in) seam al­lowance.

MEA­SUR­ING UP

Step one Mea­sure the length of your ta­ble and de­cide how much of the run­ner you want hang­ing down ei­ther end – about 30cm (12in) each end is about right if you’re not sure. Add this to ei­ther end of the length for the fin­ished length of your run­ner.

Step two Most ta­ble run­ners are 30-35cm (12-14in) wide but you can make yours to the width you pre­fer.

Step three Once you’ve de­cided on your di­men­sions write down the fin­ished width and length of your run­ner.

CUT­TING OUT

Step one Add 2cm (¾in) to the length and 2cm (¾in) to the width of the mea­sure­ments you wrote down – this al­lows for a 1cm (!⁄"in) seam al­lowance each side. Cut your main fab­ric to these di­men­sions.

Step two We made our fin­ished bor­der 4cm (1$⁄"in) wide and this sits on top of the ta­ble run­ner main fab­ric – it doesn’t add any ac­tual width or length to it. You can make yours nar­rower or wider if you pre­fer.

Step three Cut your bor­der fab­ric as fol­lows: Long edges: 2 strips; the fin­ished bor­der width + 2cm (¾in) x the main fab­ric length. Short edges: Fin­ished bor­der width + 2cm (¾in) x the main fab­ric width.

JOIN­ING THE BOR­DERS

Step one Turn one long edge on each bor­der strip un­der 1cm (!⁄"in) to the wrong side (WS). Step two Place one long edge bor­der piece right sides (RS) to­gether with one short edge bor­der piece, mak­ing sure the folded edge and un­folded edge line up ex­actly. The folded-un­der edge needs to be at the top. Step three Mea­sure the width of your pressed un­der bor­der. This will be the fin­ished width plus a 1cm (!⁄"in) seam al­lowance.

Step four Mea­sure along the folded edge from the top left cor­ner to your pressed un­der bor­der width mea­sure­ment you took from the pre­vi­ous step and mark this with a pin.

Step five Draw a di­ag­o­nal line from the bot­tom left cor­ner to this pin mark.

Step six Stitch the two bor­der strips to­gether along this line, mak­ing sure you stitch ac­cu­rately for a re­ally crisp, neat cor­ner.

Step seven Trim the two fab­rics 1cm (!⁄"in) out­side this stitched line and press it flat.

Step eight Re­peat this process to pin, mark, stitch and trim the other three cor­ners to­gether in ex­actly the same way to com­plete your bor­der.

AT­TACH­ING THE BOR­DERS

Step one Lay the main ta­ble run­ner piece of fab­ric WS up on your work sur­face and place your as­sem­bled bor­der RS down on top, match­ing all fab­ric edges and cor­ners. Pin into place all the way around.

Step two Start­ing in the centre of one side, stitch the bor­der into place all the way around. When you reach the cor­ners, keep the nee­dle down in the cor­ner stitching of the bor­der, raise your presser foot, turn the fab­ric around then con­tinue stitching down the next side side. This will en­sure the cor­ners of this stitching are ex­actly placed in the cor­ner of your stitched bor­der.

Step three Trim off the cor­ners out­side the stitching to re­duce the bulk.

TOPSTITCHING THE BOR­DER

Step one Turn the bor­der and ta­ble run­ner RS out so the bor­der is now lay­ing neatly on top of the run­ner. Push the points of the cor­ners out care­fully so they form a nice point but take care not to pierce the fab­ric. Use a point turner or the end of a nar­row paint­brush.

Step two Press all the way around, mak­ing sure that the seams lie ex­actly on the edge. Press­ing the seams open from the WS first helps with this.

Step three Pin the bor­der flat on top of the run­ner then, from the RS, top­stitch this neatly into place just 3mm (%⁄"in) in­side the turned un­der bor­der edge all the way around.

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