Simply Sewing - - THE GUIDE -

A term used to de­scribe the way a fab­ric hangs un­der its own weight. Dif­fer­ent fab­rics have dif­fer­ent drape qual­i­ties. The ad­di­tion of ex­tra fab­ric in a pat­tern to al­low the fin­ished gar­ment to fit the body well. A row of stitching on the very edge of a gar­ment, usu­ally 2-3mm ( ⁄ - ⁄ in) from the folded or seamed edge. Used to hold the fab­ric edge neatly in place. This pat­tern piece is cut separately to sta­bilise and cre­ate a neat fin­ish on the edge of a gar­ment, such as the neck­line. A term used to de­scribe a cut piece of fab­ric of­ten used for patch­work projects, usu­ally mea­sur­ing 46x55cm (18x22in). This is done to stop the fab­ric edges, par­tic­u­larly of a seam, from fray­ing. It can be done by ma­chine zigzag stitch, us­ing an over­locker or trim­ming the raw edge with pink­ing shears. The length­wise fab­ric grain, run­ning par­al­lel to the selvedge. Fab­rics like vel­vet, cor­duroy and fur have hairs or loops which all lie in one di­rec­tion and are called the nap, or pile. When cut­ting out pat­tern pieces make sure the grain­line ar­row al­ways runs in the di­rec­tion of the nap. Small tools or ac­ces­sories used in sewing such as zips, fas­ten­ers, lace and but­tons. The right side of the fab­ric, also called the ‘pub­lic’ side, has the de­sign on it. The wrong side is the other side – this is usu­ally a lit­tle duller or faded on plain fab­rics. The fab­ric be­tween the raw or cut edge of the fab­ric and the seam is called the seam al­lowance. Your pat­tern will tell you the re­quired seam al­lowance mea­sure­ment. This is usu­ally 1.5cm ( ⁄ in) for dress­mak­ing, but can vary. The fin­ished woven edge of fab­ric, of­ten with the fab­ric name printed on it. The grain runs par­al­lel to this and the bias di­ag­o­nally. Called sel­vage in the US. A line of reg­u­lar ma­chine stitching usu­ally worked 3mm ( ⁄ in) in­side the seam line, of­ten used to sta­bilise curved edges to stop them stretch­ing out of shape. A line of tem­po­rary stitching used to hold fab­ric pieces to­gether be­fore ma­chine sewing, worked in the same way as run­ning stitch. Known as bast­ing in the U.S. A line of stitching worked 5mm ( in) from the folded or seam edge. Used to hold the seam in place and as a dec­o­ra­tive fin­ish. A line of stitching worked through the fac­ing and seam al­lowance 3mm ( ⁄ in) from the seam to stop the fac­ing rolling to the out­side of the gar­ment. Un­der­stitch­ing will not be vis­i­ble on the out­side.

For a full glos­sary of sewing terms visit www.sim­pl­y­sewing­

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