Mission to bring sour beer to city

Stockport Times West - - LEISURE - JOHN CLARKE

ALE en­thu­si­ast, John Clarke, re­views three beers – one lo­cal, one from fur­ther afield in the UK and one from abroad.

CHORL­TON Brew­ing Co. Dark Mat­ter, 6.8%, 330ml

DE­SPITE the name, Mike Mar­cus’s brew­ery is housed in an Ard­wick rail­way arch – its spirit how­ever re­mains in that most bo­hemian of Manch­ester sub­urbs.

Mike is a man on a mission to bring sour beers to the peo­ple of Manch­ester.

By sour I don’t mean ‘off’ but rather beers in­spired by the lam­bics of Bel­gium, the wheat beers of Ber­lin or, in this case, Gose from Leipzig.

Th­ese are tra­di­tion­ally sour wheat beers with a touch of salt added for good mea­sure.

Done badly they could be hor­ri­ble but this is some­thing of a tri­umph.

It’s a black-brown beer and the dark malts bring roast and choco­late notes with them – on the nose and the palate.

Then comes the touch of sour­ness and hint of salt – all won­der­fully el­e­gant and re­strained – and bal­anced by that choco­late again – and per­haps hints of port, too.

A se­ri­ously im­pres­sive de­but beer.

HAM­MER­TON’S Is­ling­ton Steam Lager, 4.7%, 330ml

HAM­MER­TON’S was a fa­mous Lon­don brew­ery that was taken over and closed in the 1950s.

A mem­ber of the Ham­mer­ton fam­ily res­ur­rected it last year and brought brew­ing back to Is­ling­ton.

This is some­thing of an ale-lager hy­brid as it’s made us­ing San Fran­cisco lager yeast but is fer­mented at ale tem­per­a­tures.

They use Vi­enna malt, too, and this is ev­i­dent from the pale or­ange colour and the slight hints of sweet­ness through­out.

It’s not cloy­ing though and there’s enough hop char­ac­ter to sus­tain it to the end. Sat­is­fy­ing and en­joy­able.

STONE Brew­ing Co. Ru­ina­tion IPA, 8.32%, 330ml

CAL­I­FOR­NIA-based Stone are one of the largest and most fa­mous craft brew­eries in the USA.

They are known for their self­pro­mo­tion so there’s lots of self­ind­ul­gent guff on the la­bel of what is a very im­pres­sive beer.

It pours a pale cop­per and it’s es­sen­tially a huge hop mon­ster all the way through from the nose to the palate and then the aftertaste.

Thick, bit­ter, piny resinous hops dom­i­nate right through to the long fin­ish where the al­co­hol also reg­is­ters its pres­ence.

If you like hops this is for you.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.