Drink

Sunday Herald Life - - Drink - Pete Ste­wart rec­om­mends Pete Ste­wart is Glas­gow di­rec­tor of In­ver­ar­ity One to One, 185a Bath Street www.in­ver­ar­i­ty­mor­ton.com

Ger­man wine can be con­fus­ing, es­pe­cially when words like “Trock­en­beer­e­nauslese” ap­pear on the la­bel.

When you break it down though, it’s ac­tu­ally quite sim­ple and (dare I say) ef­fi­cient.

So “trocken” is Ger­man for dry, but in this case, it’s not the wine that’s dry. It’s the grapes or berries (“beeren”). “Lese” is har­vest, and “spatlese” would be late har­vest. “Auslese” refers to an ex­tra-late har­vest.

So late, in fact, that the in­di­vid­ual berries on the vine have lost an el­e­ment of their mois­ture and have par­tially dried out in the sun.

So, a “Trock­en­beer­e­nauslese” wine is one where the dry berries are picked in­di­vid­u­ally by hand fol­low­ing an ex­tremely late har­vest. Sim­ple.

The wine will there­fore be lovely and sweet, and (un­for­tu­nately) ex­pen­sive.

You pay a pre­mium as the yield us­ing this method is so low. But the wines are de­light­ful, and can be en­joyed as a lush aper­i­tif or with a fruit-based dessert, or with a nice blue cheese. Ro­que­fort is my favourite match.

Lenz Moser Pres­tige

Trock­en­beer­e­nauslese 2015 (In­ver­ar­ity One to One, £13.99 for 37.5cl).

Lenz Moser are based in Rohren­dorf in Aus­tria, and this is a re­mark­able wine as well as be­ing re­mark­ably good value.

This stan­dard of Trock­en­beer­e­nauslese from the Mosel would fetch per­haps twice the price. It’s lush and sweet on the palate with a lovely, clean acid­ity pro­vid­ing the all-im­por­tant bal­ance.

If that sounds a lit­tle too sweet for your taste, try a bot­tle of the Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Ries­ling Spatlese

2013 (Wood­win­ters, £24.50). Hel­mut Donnhoff is one of the most tal­ented wine­mak­ers cur­rently work­ing in Europe and his wines are a de­light.

I’d ad­vise call­ing ahead and check­ing avail­abil­ity as there’s never much of his stuff around. Cheers!

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