Float­ing on wa­ter

Surf Girl - - – Snap Shot – -

As a kid, I loved the ocean. As I grew up in Lux­em­bourg, land­locked and far from the coast, my fam­ily would travel to the is­land of Sar­dinia with a cam­per­van for a few weeks ev­ery year. We cruised around small, hid­den is­lands with our tiny boat and my dad taught me how to swim. I spent the whole day in the wa­ter, snorkelling and play­ing in the shore­break with my brother.

When I was grow­ing up, all of my trips were cen­tred on the sea. As both my par­ents are travel ad­dicts, my early years were full of ex­pe­ri­enc­ing some of the most beau­ti­ful parts of the world and it made me yearn for more. This is how I fell in love with trav­el­ling and the sea. Thank you, mum and dad.

Three years ago, a friend spon­ta­neously con­vinced me to join a surf camp on the west coast of France. I had no plans for the sum­mer, a low bud­get, and was open to new ex­pe­ri­ences as long as it was close to the sea. On our way to the camp our car broke down, so we con­tin­ued on our way by hitch­hik­ing and had an awe­some week in our tent in the mid­dle of a for­est. I had my first surf les­son and I still think that I was the worst be­gin­ner. I was about to give up, but af­ter a few days I fi­nally man­aged to surf a wave. It felt amaz­ing and I wanted to feel this feel­ing again. The guys in the camp told us that surf­ing is like a virus and once you´re in­fected, you will never get rid of it again. I fi­nally un­der­stood what they meant.

Af­ter that first surf

ex­pe­ri­ence, I started plan­ning my next surf trips and saved all my money to travel. I got my first surf­board for Christ­mas and couldn’t wait to get back in the wa­ter. Af­ter I grad­u­ated from my Mas­ter’s De­gree in Cologne, I started work­ing in a surf camp in France, which was a dream come true. Af­ter an amaz­ing three months I went to Bali and fi­nally started short­board­ing.

Surf­ing all day long al­lowed my skills to im­prove im­mensely. I met plenty of awe­some peo­ple that taught me a lot about surf­ing, took me out into the line-ups and mo­ti­vated me.

It was here that I met Mar, di­rec­tor and founder of Folk­loresurf, and he made me an am­bas­sador for his surf brand and shaped me a new board. This was more than I could ever wish for. Surf­ing this ab­so­lutely stun­ning board kept me mo­ti­vated and pushed me to surf as much as pos­si­ble. I have now lived in Bali for seven months and gone on trips to New Zealand and Siar­gao to see some other waves and just ex­plore. Soon I will head back to work in the surf camp in France and surf French beach breaks again. I don´t know what is wait­ing for me af­ter France, but I’m sure it will be con­nected to surf­ing.

I guess I feel so much pas­sion for surf­ing be­cause it’s chal­leng­ing. Ev­ery surf ses­sion is unique and ev­ery wave means pro­gres­sion and im­prove­ment. It can be sur­pris­ing, some­times frus­trat­ing, but most of the time it fills me with joy. Sit­ting out in the line-up, en­joy­ing the en­vi­ron­ment around me, float­ing on the wa­ter, catch­ing a wave and be­com­ing one with it. This is hap­pi­ness.

I guess I feel so„ much pas­sion for surf­ing be­cau it’s cha en­g­ing.

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