Floating on water
As a kid, I loved the ocean. As I grew up in Luxembourg, landlocked and far from the coast, my family would travel to the island of Sardinia with a campervan for a few weeks every year. We cruised around small, hidden islands with our tiny boat and my dad taught me how to swim. I spent the whole day in the water, snorkelling and playing in the shorebreak with my brother.
When I was growing up, all of my trips were centred on the sea. As both my parents are travel addicts, my early years were full of experiencing some of the most beautiful parts of the world and it made me yearn for more. This is how I fell in love with travelling and the sea. Thank you, mum and dad.
Three years ago, a friend spontaneously convinced me to join a surf camp on the west coast of France. I had no plans for the summer, a low budget, and was open to new experiences as long as it was close to the sea. On our way to the camp our car broke down, so we continued on our way by hitchhiking and had an awesome week in our tent in the middle of a forest. I had my first surf lesson and I still think that I was the worst beginner. I was about to give up, but after a few days I finally managed to surf a wave. It felt amazing and I wanted to feel this feeling again. The guys in the camp told us that surfing is like a virus and once you´re infected, you will never get rid of it again. I finally understood what they meant.
After that first surf
experience, I started planning my next surf trips and saved all my money to travel. I got my first surfboard for Christmas and couldn’t wait to get back in the water. After I graduated from my Master’s Degree in Cologne, I started working in a surf camp in France, which was a dream come true. After an amazing three months I went to Bali and finally started shortboarding.
Surfing all day long allowed my skills to improve immensely. I met plenty of awesome people that taught me a lot about surfing, took me out into the line-ups and motivated me.
It was here that I met Mar, director and founder of Folkloresurf, and he made me an ambassador for his surf brand and shaped me a new board. This was more than I could ever wish for. Surfing this absolutely stunning board kept me motivated and pushed me to surf as much as possible. I have now lived in Bali for seven months and gone on trips to New Zealand and Siargao to see some other waves and just explore. Soon I will head back to work in the surf camp in France and surf French beach breaks again. I don´t know what is waiting for me after France, but I’m sure it will be connected to surfing.
I guess I feel so much passion for surfing because it’s challenging. Every surf session is unique and every wave means progression and improvement. It can be surprising, sometimes frustrating, but most of the time it fills me with joy. Sitting out in the line-up, enjoying the environment around me, floating on the water, catching a wave and becoming one with it. This is happiness.
I guess I feel so much passion for surfing becau it’s cha enging.