How t„o leave the white­wa­ter be­hind and drop-in to green waves

Are you ready to take your sur‹ng to the next level? Get ready to say good­bye to the white wa­ter and see sur‹ng in a whole new light be­cause it’s time to pad­dle out a lit­tle fur­ther and surf those peel­ing waves. Once you’ve surfed a green wave and cap­ture

Surf Girl - - – Technique – - By Corinne Evans For more surf tips get a copy of The Surf Girl Hand­book avail­able world­wide or at www.sur­f­girl­beach­bou­tique.com

Watch the waves

Firstly, make sure you watch the waves be­fore you pad­dle out, so you can see where they are break­ing and can de­cide where the best place to sit is. Re­mem­ber that there’s no point sit­ting in the spot where the waves aren’t break­ing, so re­sist the urge to avoid the waves and get amongst it.

Eyes on the prize

Keep your eyes on the hori­zon – you want to be ready when the waves come. Keep check­ing out back to see where the swell is com­ing in and make sure you pad­dle to the peak, not away from it. It’s al­ways a good idea to mark your line-up with a point on the beach. Find an ob­ject that won’t move, like a life­guard hut or a tree. That way you know where to pad­dle back to af­ter each wave. It will also keep you in check if there’s a rip.

Lie down

Try to lie down on the surf­board as much as you can be­tween surfs – if you’re still new to surf­ing, it’s im­por­tant to be as re­spon­sive as pos­si­ble. You want to be ready to turn and pad­dle at any point. If you’re sit­ting on your surf­board it will be­come much more of faff to get the wave. As you progress more you can start sit­ting on the board and re­lax­ing a lit­tle.

Size and shape

The size and shape of the wave will de­ter­mine how you ap­proach the drop in. If the wave is slow and rolling you can pad­dle straight on, eas­ing into your take off. How­ever, if you’re surf­ing a wave that is steeper, you will want to an­gle your take off, avoid­ing the bar­relling part of the wave. Pad­dle with your surf­board at a slight an­gle, with the nose of the surf­board point­ing away from the peel­ing sec­tion of the wave.

Po­si­tion

Us­ing the mo­men­tum of the wave and speed­ing up your pad­dling, you will feel the wave pick you up and push you for­ward. This is when you want to pop up to your feet. Keep­ing an arch in your back and your knees com­pressed will re­duce the chance of fall­ing off. Avoid straight­en­ing your legs and stand­ing up­right.

Tim­ing

Find­ing the right time to get to your feet is key. If you get up too early the wave will pass you by and if you get up too late you run the risk of nose div­ing and go­ing over the falls. As a gen­eral rule, we al­ways ad­vise do­ing a few ex­tra pad­dles to en­sure you’re on the wave. This will al­low you to get into a glid­ing mo­tion with the wave. Keep your eyes down the line of the wave and try and avoid look­ing down at your feet!

Turn

Once you’re up and rid­ing it’s time to set your in­side edge and turn across the wave. You don’t want to surf straight to be beach like you did on the white wa­ter, you want to stay out on the open face, ad­just­ing your weight through your toes and heels. For your first few green waves it’s best to just try and stay on the green face for as long as pos­si­ble and make the most of the wave. Keep watch­ing the wave and try and fig­ure out what it is go­ing to do. Read­ing waves will come with prac­tice and, like ev­ery as­pect of surf­ing, the more you surf the bet­ter you will be­come.

Keep go­ing!

Keep prac­tis­ing, surf as much as you can and don’t give up! Surf­ing is a marathon, not a race.

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