So what are some important steppingstones on e longboarding pa way?
HAVE A CUSTOM BOARD MADE
Find an expert shaper that you trust, who knows and understands your style and vision, and who can create exactly what you need and want. Invest in beautiful artwork and acquire a board that will illuminate your surfing. If you ride a board you love you will perform to the best of your ability. You’ll do your best to respect your vessel, to hone your talent aboard your craft and will try your hardest to do it justice in the waves.
GO SOMEWHERE WARM
There is nothing like the freedom to move your limbs and to float to your feet freely without the restriction of 3-5mm of neoprene. I love wetsuits and feel a little bit naked without them, but boy can I flex and frolic at lot more when I’m bikini clad. Plus you can clock up some serious, lengthy surf sessions without the promise of the onset of hypothermia after 3 hours – just remember to zinc up and drink vast amounts of H2O.
STICK TO ONE WAVE AND SURF IT IMPECCABLY – PREFERABLY A POINTBREAK What do most of the world’s most stylish long boarders have in common? They grew up surfing point breaks, have some of the longest, peachiest waves on their doorstep that they have utterly dialled, and simply dominate on their home breaks. WATCH YOURSELF ON VIDEO AND/OR GET PHOTOS TAKEN
Ok, so you’re catching waves, you’re doing your thang, but what exactly do you look like? Check out the reality of the situation, rather than the image in your mind of what you think you look like. Sometimes it’s not pretty, so get over the bursting of the egos bubble, and realise the first step to change is becoming aware. Now you know you have raptor arms or resting bitch face you can attempt to correct that faux pas and move swiftly forward.
CONSCIOUSLY ATTEMPT NEW SKILLS AND DON’T GIVE UP UNTIL YOU NAIL THEM
Don’t get stuck! To flourish and grow means trying new things, it means taking that leap of faith and attempting actions that are out of your comfort zone, even if it means you might fall. What’s the worst that could happen? Yup, you could fall… but hey, you could also fly!
It’s way harder to concentrate on surfing when you’re dealing with a barrage of emotions like irritation and infuriation.