When the waves get bigger and stronger you’re going to find the simple push-over isn’t going to work effectively anymore. A good way to judge is that if the whitewater is bigger than your arm length, it’s time to turtle roll. This is where you turn your board upside down (so the rocker is facing down) so the wave rolls over the top of your board, then flip it back around after the wave is behind you.
Paddle fast up to the wave.
At about 6ft before the wave reaches you, grab the rails just in front of your head on the top third of the board.
Sink the left or right hand side of the board and flip it upside down.
Make sure the board is flush with the water, especially that the nose isn’t out the water so it can’t catch it.
When upside down, your position should be held with your elbows bent and supple to take on the wobble of the white water, and your legs hang down naturally.
It’s a bit turbulent, then you feel the wave pass over you.
When the turbulence feels like it’s finished, flip your board over and you’re by the side of your board.
Climb back on your board.
Continue paddling to get speed up for the next wave.