Tameside Advertiser - - CITYLIFELOCAL -

as­para­gus sea­son I’d be sur­prised if this as­para­gus were Bri­tish, but even if it’s Span­ish it’s at least a de­cent nod to­ward sea­son­al­ity.

Wings’ chief spe­cial­ity is its renowned sea bass dishes priced daily ac­cord­ing to go­ing rates and weight.

The Yin Yan Sea Bass worked out at £30.90 which wasn’t hor­ren­dously ex­pen­sive but per­haps more than it should have been.

As the name im­plies its fil­let cooked two ways: one steamed, one fried.

It’s a great way to show off the fish even if the chef choose to leave in the dark meat.

The sauces lacked punch and were a lit­tle vague and wishy washy for my tastes.

That said the qual­ity of the sea bass shone through.

As you might ex­pect in a ‘celeb-haunt’, the wine list is some­what deca­dent with­out ap­peal­ing to those of us who may be a lit­tle more fi­nan­cially em­bar­rassed than Pre­mier League foot­ballers.

I hov­ered over the list­ing for a Lafite Roth­schild 1999 (£1,199) and de­cided in­stead for a Ts­ing­tao (£4.40). At £80 for the en­tire meal in­clud­ing five beers, I’d say there’s much bet­ter value Can­tonese or in­deed Szechuan food else­where.

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