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13 Ex­eter Street, Lon­don WC2 Thanks to the most dis­creet en­trance in town, this still man­ages to feel like a se­cret you have stum­bled upon, but in fact it has been fash­ion­able with the theatre crowd for some 30 years now. Cui­sine Amer­i­can com­fort House wine £15 (1 litre carafe) Price About £35 per per­son Plus Par­tic­u­larly good if you’re in a crowd Mi­nus Luvvies ob­ject to the re­cent in­flux of non-luvvies Reser­va­tions 020 7836 0651


7–9 St James’s Street, Lon­don SW1 The all-white, all-light an­gu­lar ar­chi­tec­ture means that you could be in NewYork or Lon­don. Late last or­ders. Cui­sine Un­com­pli­cated and er­ratic House wine £23 Price About £50 per per­son Plus Christie’s wine de­part­ment over­sees the wine list Mi­nus Can get loud Reser­va­tions 020 7321 2111


63–64 Frith Street, Lon­don W1 De­spite the non­de­script metropoli­tan decor, the cook­ing here is of­ten very good. Ad­ven­tur­ous food and wine match­ers love the fact that ev­ery­thing on the list is avail­able in a 250ml carafe. Cui­sine Of the mo­ment House wine £12.50 Price About £25-£30 per per­son Plus Rea­son­ably priced Mi­nus Last or­ders are at 10.30, so you must be quick Reser­va­tions 020 7734 4545

Belinda Richard­son


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