The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Saturday

‘I

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make purposeful footwear: for travel, for experience, for going places and doing things,” begins the shoe designer Penelope Chilvers when we meet. Yeah, right, I think, applying my usual cynicism and substituti­ng “travel” with “a business class flight to New York” and “experience” with “a fashion show”.

For when I think of Chilvers, I see Alexa Chung in her palm-treeemblaz­oned smoking slippers, looking picture-perfect while striding through customs at JFK. I recall Claudia Schiffer, Keira Knightley and Cate Blanchett, all of whom are fans of Chilvers’s neonaccent­ed safari boots. None of these women, you will agree, is heavily associated with outdoor pursuits.

Forgive me. For it turns out that practicali­ty – a moot point in fashion – is truly at the heart of Penelope Chilvers, the woman and the brand. It all started with a riding boot. And not just any riding boot: a traditiona­l Spanish riding boot, made in a specialist Goodyear-weltedsole factory where all her riding, walking, and snow boots are still made. Like all good designs, it was born of genuine need.

“I didn’t make it with a mind to starting a business,” Chilvers recalls. “I wanted a pair of riding boots for myself. So I spent a day with the most amazing Spanish artisan, telling him how I wanted it to look.”

An artist by training – she studied painting at London’s Byam Shaw School of Art – and with a career in interior, commercial property and product design in Barcelona already establishe­d, Chilvers was very particular. She wanted the ankle elongated and the foot narrow; the Spanish saddle leather vegetabled­yed to a chocolate brown; a knee-high cut; and a tassel.

 ??  ?? I’ve seen the fuschia, and it works (below, from top): safari boot, £239, Penelope Chilvers (penelope chilvers. com); jacket, £48, Topshop (topshop. com); jungle boot, £199, Penelope Chilvers, as before
I’ve seen the fuschia, and it works (below, from top): safari boot, £239, Penelope Chilvers (penelope chilvers. com); jacket, £48, Topshop (topshop. com); jungle boot, £199, Penelope Chilvers, as before
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