AROMATIC REDS

M&S This is… Rich & Smooth Spanish Red 2019

Spain (12%, M&S, £5) Back in spring, M&S launched its range of This Is wines, all of which are £5 or £6 a bottle. This one is a fantastic buy that does exactly what it says on the tin. It’s made entirely from tempranillo, which is the main rioja grape.

Cono Sur Organic Pinot

Noir 2018

Chile (13.5%, Sainsbury’s, £9) Chile has created a groove for juicy, inexpensive pinot noir and this is a superb example; generous, fragrant and freeflowing, it tastes of ripe red and black cherries and baked raspberries with a whiff of stalks. Cono Sur was into sustainability long before that became a buzzword and this wine is also organic.

Exquisite Collection Argentinian Malbec 2019 Argentina (13.5%, Aldi, £5.99) For a few years now this has been one of the best-value wines on Aldi’s shelves. It’s light-bodied for a malbec, and floral rather than tarry. An extremely useful wine to have around.

Clos Montalbanie Pécharmant 2016 France (14%, Co-op, £8) Pécharmant is a relatively unknown appellation in Bergerac, to the east of Bordeaux and this is a steal of a buy for anyone who loves claret. More rustic than bordeaux, but still nicely tailored, made from merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and also malbec, which brings a throaty, black-fruited spice.

Cramele Recas Lautarul Pinot Noir 2019 Romania (12.5%, Haynes, Hanson & Clark, £7.35/8.35 by the case/single bottle price; House of Townend, £7.99) Romania is a secretly good source of everyday drinking (as opposed to sublimely hedonistic) pinot noir and this one shows why: it sings of summer with scents of red berries and cherry blossom, with a gentle rosewoody spice in the background.

Trapiche Pure Malbec

Unoaked 2019 Mendoza, Argentina (13.5%,

Co-op, £8)

A particularly smooth, juicy and light-bodied expression of Argentinian malbec, this is all bright blueberries, roasted damsons and silky violet petals. More in the drink-without-food style than some of the more blackfruited, tarry and tannic malbecs. But of course good with food too.

Les Nivières Saumur Rouge 2018

Loire, France (13.5%, Waitrose, £7.49 down from £9.99 until July 28 in 282 branches)

Loire cabernet franc is always beautiful in a warmer year such as 2018, scented like a summer pudding, with sumptuous berry flavours. This one comes from the very good Cave Robert et Marcel cooperative. Chill for half an hour before pouring.

The Society’s Rioja

Crianza 2016

Spain (14%, The Wine Society,

£8.50)

Such a good buy, this one. Rioja made entirely from tempranillo and aged in American oak, which typically has more relaxed, vanilla flavours than French oak. It smells of roasted strawberries, russet leaves, leather and tobacco and is one to take you through summer and into autumn.

A fantastic buy that does what it says on the tin