Tast­ing notes

A much-kneaded hands-on les­son in bread-mak­ing

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - LIFE AND TIMES - Amy Bryant

Get­ting your hands floury at a bak­ery school

‘Ev Ery­one gets Ex­cited about the dough­nuts, but we do some pretty good loaves too,’ says Matt Jones, who has his hands deep in a bowl of flour. the founder of Bread Ahead, the bak­ery that opened in Lon­don’s Bor­ough Market in 2013, is be­ing mod­est. the dough nuts are raved about: not a week­end goes by with­out some­one in­sta­gram­ming a su­gar y tray­ful ooz­ing salted-caramel cream and hunks of hon­ey­comb, or rasp­berry jam, or cus­tard. they are the cre­ation of head baker Justin gel­latly (of st John-res­tau­rant fame, where he worked for 13 years ), and his bread s–now they re­ally are crack­ing. We’re talk­ing sour dough with ac rust that– es­pe­cially in the case of the dark, scorched r ye ver­sion – is thick, sweet-sour and fe­ro­ciously mor­eish.

the se­crets to Bread Ahead’s slow-fer­mented loaves, as well as its pil­lowy ital­ian fo­cac­cias and even those dough- nuts, are dis­closed dur­ing classes at its Bak­ery school, which Jones and gel­latly opened in 2014, with bases in Bor­ough and, as of the start of this year, chelsea. With deft move­ments, Jones demon­strate show to coaxfo ca ccia dough( which, with its high water con­tent, is so wet and sticky that at home one would be sorely tempted to add a lit­tle more flour) into a glossy, mal­leable mass.

Heav­ing hand­fuls into the air and thwack­ing them down on to the work­top, i can see the trans­for­ma­tion of my own dough in a mat­ter of min­utes. As cia­batta and rose­mary-flecked grissini joint hefo ca cc iain the oven, Jones ex pounds the prov­ing process, flourto-water ra­tio sand knead­ing knowhow–then sends us off with some ex­ceed­ingly good loaves. breada­head.com

The Bread Ahead Bak­ery

School’s classes – which cover ev­ery­thing from Mid­dle eastern flat­breads to new york bagels and pret­zels – take place in half-day and full-day ses­sions at bor­ough Market, lon­don se1, and Pavil­ion road, lon­don sw1; from £80 per per­son

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