Drink me

A meaty menu and summer weather can sometimes clash. On one hand you have a warm, sunny environment nudging your palate towards refreshment in the form of white or rosé, while on the other you have a chunk of meat asking for a deep, flavoursome red. Granted, full-bodied, structured whites or rosé with texture can take the place of red at the table on a hot day: white meats in particular pair well with white wine, and roast beef with new potatoes and salad is lovely with the right rosé.

There are times, however, when only red will do. I prefer the simple, direct fruitiness of a young wine, and avoid those regions or grapes that are high in tannin. Temperature is my biggest focus when serving red. If you are lucky enough to own a cellar, keep bottles in it until the last minute, or put them in the fridge half an hour before you plan to open them. If it is really hot (rare here, but I often use this trick on holiday), have an ice bucket on hand. Warm red tastes heavy and alcoholic; cool accentuates fruit and refreshment. Here are three meat-friendly bottles to try in every colour.