Drink me

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - THE CUT / FOOD - Hamish An­der­son

The south­ern Rhône is an ex­am­ple of how wine pref­er­ences change with the sea­sons. I’ve barely looked at a bot­tle from the area all sum­mer (I’m not alone: sales in the warmer months are mi­nus­cule in the Tate restau­rants), but colder nights, along with the deeply flavoured food that comes with them, point to a red of warmth and char­ac­ter.

This large area is best-known for the Châteauneuf-du-pape re­gion. Its reds can be made from many va­ri­eties, al­though it is the richly fruited grenache that forms the back­bone. There is a lot of Châteauneuf made, and much of it is not good value. Avoid the own-la­bel stuff that dom­i­nates the su­per­mar­kets and ei­ther buy the best (at a price) or look else­where in the re­gion. The wines tend to be full-bod­ied but not overtly tan­nic, with dark fruit like black­berry, and spice. As they age they turn a bit feral, which I love: think of game and mush­rooms.

Here are three to try. The Gigondas, in par­tic­u­lar, will be lovely with David Ta­nis’s grilled mush­rooms, or bring it out with any slow-cooked, red-meat dish.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.