Drink me

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut Food - Hamish An­der­son

Bur­gundy is a re­gion I visit and taste in reg­u­larly, and while oth­ers might have more aes­thetic ap­peal, it is the place for which I most look for­ward to pack­ing my bags. It’s fa­mil­iar, yes, and I have a lot of its sig­na­ture grapes – pinot noir and chardon­nay – in my cel­lar, but Bur­gundy has seeped into me no like no other re­gion. There’s its ro­bust cui­sine rooted in sat­is­fy­ing the hun­gry worker, its long and fa­mous vi­nous his­tory, and a patch­work of vine­yards that pro­duce an end­less va­ri­ety of tastes across a small geo­graphic area.

De­spite their fame, the peo­ple who run the es­tates are re­mark­ably hum­ble. Bot­tles worth hun­dreds of pounds are poured, dis­cussed then drunk with plea­sure rather than rev­er­ence. And yet bot­tles, and in­deed land, now fetch prices that would have been laughed at a decade ago. Con­sumer de­mand means I can no longer af­ford to buy the wines I once could. But while I can’t drink much Cham­bolle-musigny, this is made up for by the rise in stan­dards across the re­gion – so I can con­sume far bet­ter San­te­nay or Marsan­nay than was pre­vi­ously pos­si­ble.

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