Drink me

Hamish An­der­son

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut Food -

In wine, there is an end­less ar­ray of grape va­ri­eties, pro­duc­ers, soils, weather pat­terns and much more to learn about. This can be part of its ap­peal, but many peo­ple do not want to spend time re­search­ing, they just want a good, re­li­able bot­tle to drink. The re­sult is that we stick to the fa­mil­iar, and plenty of su­per­mar­ket ranges now re­flect this, with pinot gri­gio, sauvi­gnon blanc and prosecco fill­ing the aisles. There are some ex­cel­lent wines, but it’s a nar­row rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the flavours wine can of­fer. Take Por­tu­gal – its wines can hardly be called left­field, yet any­thing be­yond for­ti­fied barely gets a look-in. How­ever, Lidl’s lat­est range is a bold sur­prise, with a strong em­pha­sis on Aus­tria and Hun­gary. As it’s Lidl, you can try some of the coun­tries’ sig­na­ture grapes, such as St Lau­rent or Kék­frankos, for be­tween £5 and £9. Other re­tail­ers stock­ing the un­usual are Booths, M&S and Waitrose. And if you are pre­pared to buy by the case, in­de­pen­dents sell bot­tles from every con­ceiv­able wine-pro­duc­ing coun­try.

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