To make toad-in-the-hole some­thing to pick up in the hands, for Bon­fire Night I cook in­di­vid­ual ‘lit­tle toads’

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut // Food -

tak­ing a pic­nic – im­prac­ti­cal in a crowd – we’d make a feast in our kitchen be­fore­hand for friends com­ing with us, and get the in­su­la­tion in early.

Bangers, creamy mash, an­gels on horse­back (oys­ters wrapped in ba­con and baked), jacket pota­toes over­flow­ing with pars­ley but­ter – there’s a re­li­able list of favourites for this kind of party. There should be some­thing on the menu to amuse the chil­dren, but also a few sub­stan­tial things to sat­isfy adults dig­ging into mulled wine. With Hal­lowe’en just past, gim­micks feel wrong; this party thrives on sim­ple ideas, with a lit­tle in­dul­gence here and there.

The com­bi­na­tion of York­shire pud­ding and sausages usu­ally finds fans, but to make toad-in-the-hole some­thing to pick up in the hands, for Bon­fire Night I cook in­di­vid­ual ‘lit­tle toads’ – they are no more trou­ble to do. I also make a big pot of steam­ing hot soup, this one sus­tained by chest­nuts, parsnips and the sweet­ness of ap­ple and honey. There’s a spiced pis­tou to swirl on top for a lit­tle in­jec­tion of ex­tra flavour.

Baked cheeses are use­ful and easy to pre­pare, but are of­ten only made with Camem­bert. You can try other cheeses, as long as they have a bloomy rind, from the white and creamy Wig­more to pun­gent Stink­ing Bishop. The slight bit­ter­ness of chicory leaves, used as spoons, is a good coun­ter­part to the rich­ness.

More and more I make cakes as pud­ding, re­ly­ing on recipes for soggy types, be­cause they can be made in ad­vance. A sticky or­ange and honey cake, crowned with bro­ken hon­ey­comb crisp, will grat­ify ev­ery­one. You could serve it with ice cream, but I wouldn’t want to chill ev­ery­one down – per­haps hot cus­tard, for ex­tra in­su­la­tion? I can’t wait.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.