Drink me

The Daily Telegraph - Telegraph Magazine - - The Cut // Food - Hamish An­der­son Spiced de­lights

Any drink you choose for Bon­fire Night will come with a range of dis­trac­tions – smoke, dark­ness, fire­works and a brisk chill, as well as likely be­ing served in a dis­pos­able (but hope­fully re­cy­clable) cup. If it’s wine, I favour red to ac­com­pany a sausage – a sweetly fruited, in­ex­pen­sive Côtes du Rhône is a good choice. How­ever, an out­door event at the be­gin­ning of win­ter is the ideal time for a first mulled wine of the year. There’s no right or wrong way to make this – it’s just per­sonal taste. In our first win­ter at Tate Mod­ern, I thought we’d per­fected the recipe to serve through­out our bars, but a few days in, our Swedish di­rec­tor cast his (not favourable) judge­ment, and gave me his fam­ily recipe for glögg. We ap­pro­pri­ated the bits we liked most – the ad­di­tion of car­damom plus an ex­tra al­co­holic kick of spirit. Chop and change in­gre­di­ents or strength to your lik­ing, but these tips will help you get the most from your recipe: use red wine with a good depth of flavour and colour; avoid boil­ing for a long pe­riod (this evap­o­rates the al­co­hol); put the spices in a bag (no one wants to sieve bits through their teeth) and don’t leave them in too long as this will cause bit­ter­ness. This is my cur­rent favourite, and unashamedly boozy. Serves 8 — 3 bot­tles red wine

— juice of 1 lemon and 1 or­ange

(re­tain the shells)

— 100ml port

— 100ml brandy

— 75g soft, light brown sugar (more

if you have a sweet tooth)

— 1 cin­na­mon stick

— 6 cloves

— 6 green car­damom pods

— 1 star anise

— 1 bay leaf

— ½ tsp pep­per­corns

— ½ tsp co­rian­der seeds

— ¼ tsp ground nut­meg Put all the liq­uids in a pan with the sugar. Tie up spices and citrus shells in a muslin cloth and add to the pan. Gen­tly bring to a boil, then turn the heat down and sim­mer for about an hour. Taste, ad­just the sweet­ness or tart­ness if needed, re­move the spice bag and serve.

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