The Daily Telegraph - Saturday - Travel
VALPOLICELLA ESSENTIALS
The perfect Valpolicella break, for those active souls in search of more than just a week by the pool, would involve a couple of nights in Verona, at least three in the heart of the wine-growing area, and a couple more at the end imbibing Lake Garda’s dolce vita charm in Bardolino, Sirmione or Garda town. It would ideally include at least one guided wine-tasting, such as the hour-long overview offered by established local tour operator Veronality (veronality.com). It would also take in at least one walk or cycle ride during the Valpolicella segment, preferably one that ended up in one of the area’s serious, unfussy country restaurants (see below for a selection). A few of the well-marked trails are detailed on the useful little tourist consortium website (valpolicellaweb. com), but to make the most of them you’ll need to invest in a good map – like the 1:50,000 Monti Lessini map by Kompass, available in Verona bookshops. Though a hire car will free you up, it’s not essential: this is a compact area that’s well served by public transport. Trains (trenitalia.com) serve the southern and western edge of Valpolicella and the southern shores of Lake Garda; a reasonably efficient country bus network (atv.verona.it) reaches the rest.
Where to stay
In March 2016, wine producer Allegrini unveiled 10 stylish rooms, all with four-poster beds, in a converted annexe of historic Villa della Torre (0039 045 683 2070; villadellatorre.it. Doubles from €300 a night). The default luxe option in the Classico area remains Villa del Quar (0039 045 680 0681; hotelvilladelquar. it; doubles from €260 a night), a comfortable, old-fashioned 15-room country relais housed in the 16th-century villa of architect-owner Leopoldo Montresor; the attached Arquade restaurant is among the best in Valpolicella. For something a little more edgy, head for Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà (0039 045 685 5555; full review at: telegraph. co.uk/ttbyblosart; doubles from €225), where contemporary artworks and design pieces play off against the opulent backdrop of an 18thcentury villa. Up in pretty San Giorgio di Valpolicella, Osteria della Pieve (0039 380 3706604; osteriadellapieve.jimdo. com; doubles from €120) is a real find, a lovely, friendly, romantic b&b with views across the vineyards to Lake Garda from some rooms, and from the outside terrace where breakfast and evening drinks are served. Over in Fumane, Costa degli Ulivi (0039 045 683 8088; costadegliulivi. com; doubles from €100) is a good-value 18-room agriturismo in an organic winery, with the bonus of an excellent trattoria-style restaurant that serves up local dishes like polenta with sopressa salami.
Where to eat
It’s the local trattorias, not the fancy places, that make a trip to Valpolicella so special. One of my favourites is century-old Trattoria Caprini (0039 045 750 0511; trattoriacaprini.it; closed Wed, dinner around €32 a head with house wine) in the little roadside hamlet of Torbe. Downstairs is a simple osteria full of local vineyard workers in for a quick tipple; upstairs, the old-fashioned family-run restaurant, accessed via a room where wooden trays of homemade pasta strips are laid out to dry, ready to star in lasagnette alla Pierina. But this is one of those places where whatever you order will be good – including the desserts, which include a rather fine pomegranatetopped cheesecake.
Wine lovers should head to Enoteca della Valpolicella (00 39 045 683 9146; enotecadellavalpolicella. it; closed Sun eve and Mon, dinner around €48 a head with a modest bottle) in Fumane, another scenic firstfloor dining room, in a garden setting on the edge of a quiet village. An 800-label-strong wine list that ticks off just about every local producer worth their salt is their claim to fame, but the regional food’s pretty good too – don’t miss the risotto with reciotto (the area’s famous sweet red wine). Any visitor to this part of the world should look in for lunch or dinner at Dalla Rosa Alda (0039 045 770 1018; dallarosaalda. it; closed Sun eve and Mon, dinner around €40 a head with house wine) in San Giorgio di Valpolicella. This classic family trattoria, with its rustic vine-shaded terrace (once the local bowls court), could wing it on location and charm alone. But in fact the menu takes a Slow Food approach, spotlighting the local peasant tradition in dishes like tortellini stuffed with wild spinach from their organic kitchen garden, or smoked pork loin marinated in beetroot juice. Owner Lodovico certainly knows his wine – alongside some celebrated amarones, you’ll find a good selection of bottles from smaller producers.
Getting there
British Airways (ba.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com) both fly to Verona from Gatwick, and Ryanair (ryanair.com) flies there from Birmingham and Stansted.