Denmark’s secret coast
armed with questions about northern European church architecture. I wanted to see if the new Nordic cuisine had spread as far as the backwaters of western Denmark. We were a motley crew divided in interests, but united in our quest (imposed by me) for the perfect three-generation weekend getaway.
After a painless 90-minute flight, we picked up our hire car and drove for an hour over flat, empty land, where farms stretch in every direction, to Ribe (population 8,168). On the south western coast of Jutland, this, Scandinavia’s oldest town, is perfect for a day’s visit: you might start by wandering its meticulously maintained medieval streets before popping into its Romanesque cathedral, in which aged wood carvings of griffins sit next to glitzy mosaics from the Eighties.
From the cathedral, we headed to Saelhunden, a restaurant in a 17thcentury timber frame inn overlooking the Ribe river. Food is the great equaliser in my family and, via a medley of smoked and fried fish of
golden brick at the Mini Castle