Den­mark’s se­cret coast

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armed with ques­tions about north­ern Euro­pean church ar­chi­tec­ture. I wanted to see if the new Nordic cui­sine had spread as far as the back­wa­ters of western Den­mark. We were a mot­ley crew di­vided in in­ter­ests, but united in our quest (im­posed by me) for the per­fect three-gen­er­a­tion week­end get­away.

Af­ter a pain­less 90-minute flight, we picked up our hire car and drove for an hour over flat, empty land, where farms stretch in every di­rec­tion, to Ribe (pop­u­la­tion 8,168). On the south western coast of Jut­land, this, Scan­di­navia’s old­est town, is per­fect for a day’s visit: you might start by wan­der­ing its metic­u­lously main­tained me­dieval streets be­fore pop­ping into its Ro­manesque cathe­dral, in which aged wood carv­ings of griffins sit next to glitzy mo­saics from the Eight­ies.

From the cathe­dral, we headed to Sael­hun­den, a res­tau­rant in a 17th­cen­tury tim­ber frame inn over­look­ing the Ribe river. Food is the great equaliser in my fam­ily and, via a med­ley of smoked and fried fish of

golden brick at the Mini Cas­tle

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