In autumn, the evening sky in Toledo is streaked with the blues, greys and pinks that feature in El Greco’s paintings. Warm rather than stifling temperatures make this the most pleasant time of year to explore the tightly packed hilltop city. Fly to Madrid from several UK airports with Iberia (iberia. com), British Airways (britishairways.com), easyJet (easyjet.com), Ryanair (ryanair.com) or Norwegian (norwegian.com/uk). Regular trains to Toledo take 33 minutes (renfe.com). See toledo-turismo.com for more information.