A PERFECT DAY

Do

Boats criss-cross the lake, including hydrofoils and car ferries. The most frequent services stop off at the major resorts of Limone, Riva and Malcesine in the north, and Desenzano, Sirmione and Gardone in the south. The latter is home to Il Vittoriale degli Italiani, the former residence of Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of Italy’s greatest 20thcentury writers. The house’s dark interiors feature bizarre objects, including an Austrian machine gun and a biplane that d’Annunzio used over Vienna in the First World War. The writer’s mausoleum is in the estate’s lush gardens. The best time to visit is on weekdays when the property is less crowded.

Drink

Located on a promontory that stretches out into the lake, Taverna San Vigilio (locanda-sanvigilio.it/it/ tavern) is a romantic spot to enjoy an aperitivo as the sun sets. Tables are dotted along a tiny harbour and snacks are served all day long. Between June and the end of August a buffet is laid out in the olive groves that flank the property on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Eat

The Michelin-starred La Casa degli Spiriti has wonderful views of the lake from its hillside spot on the eastern shore. The menu focuses mainly on fish and seafood dishes, with the likes of Sardinian tuna and roasted grouper with capers and candied onions. There are plenty of options for meat-lovers too, including a sevencourse tasting menu (€130) featuring vitello tonnato, a cold dish of thinly sliced veal covered with tuna and caper sauce, along with milk-fed veal served with asparagus and potatoes. A more informal bistro on the rooftop terrace serves brunch and pasta dishes.