Ascent
the Poppit Rocket, one of Pembrokeshire’s excellent coastal bus services, the only passenger until we pick up an old regular who gets dropped off along the way. I get off at Poppit Sands, relishing the prospect of the walk ahead: a favourite stretch that I’d not done for a long time. Pembrokeshire’s spectacular cliffs are at their highest in the north and it is here at the northern end of the Coast
Path that the most challenging walking of the whole route is to be found.
Heading uphill, the lane leads past the Youth Hostel to the farm-cum-campsite at the end, Allt-y-Coed (Goed on the OS map), where the actual path begins. Beyond the farm the path takes you to Cemaes Head where there are fine views across the bay to Cardigan Island. Continuing southwards it’s well worth looking back to admire the spectacular folding of the rocks, seen especially well from the south side of Pen yr Afr. There are also excellent views towards the south with Dinas ‘Island’, Pen Caer and Strumble Head (look for the flashing light) all visible. In spring and summer, foxgloves and other flowers add colour to these steep, bracken-clad slopes.
In places I find the narrow path quite overgrown, no doubt awaiting the path maintenance team, since other sections have been cleared.
(If you were trying to practise social distancing, this stretch of coastline could be tricky, but it is one of the quietest sections of the Pembrokeshire coast – I met hardly a soul between Poppit Sands and Newport Sands.) Beyond lovely Ceibwr Bay I spot a number of razorbills bobbing about on the water. Black above and white below, with a black, bluntended bill, this seabird is the emblem of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.
The view over Newport Sands with the tide well out is magnificent. Crossing the estuary, the path leads on to Parrog. This was an important trading and shipbuilding port in the past. You can see slate quay walls and an old lime kiln, while a former storehouse is now home to Newport Boat Club. There’s more birdlife to enjoy beside the estuary, followed by another fine stretch of coastline leading to Dinas Island. The belfry and west wall are all that remain of the 12th Century church of St Brynach at Cwm-yr-Eglwys, destroyed by storms in the 1850s. The sun sets as I get here, with an easy walk across the neck of the headland to Pwllgwaelod.
The view over Newport Sands; River Nevern and Newport Sands from the coast path; Looking back towards Pen yr Afr (in the distance)
Further information
Maps: OS 1:50,000 Landranger sheet 145 (Cardigan & Mynydd Preseli); OS 1:25,000 Explorer sheet OL35 (North Pembrokeshire)
Transport:
1
Start/Finish
Carn Galver Mine car park
GR: SW421364
A path at the north corner of the
CP heads downhill to join the
South West Coast Path, which you
follow NE for 5km to a T-junction
above Pendour Cove, turning R
to Zennor.
Turn R past the church, then
L at the fork, taking Church
Road out to the B3306. Turn R,
leaving the main road almost
immediately to the L to follow
the footpath.
Opposite the entrance to
Rosemorran, turn R to use
stepping stones to cross the
stream, turning L on the far bank
to follow a meandering and
braided path along the valley and
then up across the fields beyond
(there are stiles at each field
boundary).
Turn L at the road and follow
it around the right-hand
bend to the T-junction, where you
cross to find a footpath heading
straight out over the moor.
As you meet enclosed land,
keep to the path tight
outside the north wall, turning L
at the track. Turn R at the first
junction to follow another track
uphill, leaving it on the L before
reaching the enclosed land
around Brook Cottage to take
a clear path up the hill.
Turn R at the track crossing,
leaving the track to the R at
the top of the hill to walk out and
climb the southern outcrop of
Carn Galver.
Follow the ridge NW to the
N outcrop of Carn Galver
before taking the path beyond,
which drops back to the car park.