Supplì and demand
The Roman version of arancini – supplì alla romana – are riceballs enriched with cooked pork and chicken livers, coated in a pecorino crumb, and hide a delicious surprise
shatter to reveal the surprise filling.
The process of preparing supplì is rather like making a risotto. First the soffritto – remember you are laying foundations – then meat, rice and wine, which should whoosh in the pan, before adding alternating ladles of broth and tomato sauce. Traditionally, this mixture was spread out on a work surface and the enriching egg and cheese mixed in. You must wait before shaping. By the third supplì, you will have the knack of hiding the mozzarella and then moulding the rice until it looks like an elongated egg. Be firm.
I have no fear of frying, door open, beer open and hair in a shower cap. You want a few inches of oil at 175C/350F or, for those of us who can’t find the thermometer, when a cube of bread dances around and takes 30 seconds to turn golden. Marco suggests frying in two stages: 3 minutes, out for 45 seconds to rest, and then a final 45 seconds back in the oil. Blot and eat while the supplì are still as hot as you can bear, possibly standing around the stove, making sure you stretch the mozzarella as far as you can.