Growing up around the family restaurant meant wholesome, straightforward meals, such as this pigs’ ears savoury cake, were everyday landmarks that became
have lived in a restaurant atmosphere my whole life. When I was a child, my parents ran a local bistro – the Genas, in Lyon. We lived in the flat above it.
On school days, my mother would drop us off, then go shopping for the plat du jour – she was the cook, and my dad ran the front of house. My brother Cédric and I were lucky enough to be able to come home for lunch. We’d eat
Iin the kitchen, then help our parents do the lunch service before going back to school for the afternoon. The dishes my mother made were straightforward and seasonal, following what she’d find at the market in the morning. Simple snacks, steak, tripe ... in Lyon there is a lot of pork.
In the autumn, she’d often make a kind of savoury cake, and serve it with a green salad. I loved the cheesiness, and the salt from the smoked bacon. We serve something similar now, a salty loaf made with pigs ears, which we serve alongside a tripe gratin. Crunchy on the outside with a soft, moist crumb. Delicious.
Our flat was a fairly classic three-bed, with a kitchen we hardly ever used – my mother was always downstairs in the restaurant kitchen, and my brother and I were usually outside. From my parents I learned the importance of simplicity,