Grow­ing up around the fam­ily restau­rant meant whole­some, straight­for­ward meals, such as this pigs’ ears savoury cake, were ev­ery­day land­marks that be­came

The Guardian - Cook - - To Finish -

have lived in a restau­rant at­mos­phere my whole life. When I was a child, my par­ents ran a lo­cal bistro – the Ge­nas, in Lyon. We lived in the flat above it.

On school days, my mother would drop us off, then go shop­ping for the plat du jour – she was the cook, and my dad ran the front of house. My brother Cé­dric and I were lucky enough to be able to come home for lunch. We’d eat

Iin the kitchen, then help our par­ents do the lunch ser­vice be­fore go­ing back to school for the af­ter­noon. The dishes my mother made were straight­for­ward and sea­sonal, fol­low­ing what she’d find at the mar­ket in the morn­ing. Sim­ple snacks, steak, tripe ... in Lyon there is a lot of pork.

In the au­tumn, she’d of­ten make a kind of savoury cake, and serve it with a green salad. I loved the cheesi­ness, and the salt from the smoked ba­con. We serve some­thing sim­i­lar now, a salty loaf made with pigs ears, which we serve along­side a tripe gratin. Crunchy on the out­side with a soft, moist crumb. De­li­cious.

Our flat was a fairly clas­sic three-bed, with a kitchen we hardly ever used – my mother was al­ways down­stairs in the restau­rant kitchen, and my brother and I were usu­ally out­side. From my par­ents I learned the im­por­tance of sim­plic­ity,

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