Peru­vian pride End­less aprons, vin­tage cook­books and Maras salt are Martin Mo­rales’s trusted tools …

The Guardian - Cook - - A Cook’s Kitchen - Martin Mo­rales is an award­win­ning Peru­vian chef, cook­book au­thor and restau­ra­teur (and DJ); @ mar­t­ince­viche

Six years ago, we sold our house to start Ce­viche in Soho, and moved to this ren­tal. We love it more than any other house we’ve ever lived in. It’s 100m from our kids’ schools, and the kitchen is ex­actly the style we like: the high ceil­ings, the pic­ture rails, the old wooden floors, and that stove (1) ! It re­minds me of the open fire­places I used for cook­ing in the An­des. It’s a coal and wood­burn­ing stove, which you can heat things on top of.

I go to Peru sev­eral times a year to re­search recipes and meet chefs, and I bring back a lot of things. This is a frac­tion of my apron col­lec­tion (2) . Above my head is an amuleto (3) – an An­dean good luck charm; and the hand-painted bas­ket (4) is from the Huan­cayo re­gion, given to me by a lady who runs a res­tau­rant called La Tullpa. She taught me how to make an ex­quis­ite oyuco potato soup.

I al­ways bring back muna (5), an An­dean herb that’s very calm­ing as a tea; and mote corn (6), a type of giant ker­nel corn that is great for slow stews and soups. Taste­wise, it’s some­where between sweet­corn and potato.

The kitchen is a place for cre­ativ­ity, fun and happiness; for fam­ily, neigh­bours and friends to come to­gether. As a fam­ily we did a work­shop with the Carga Max­ima artist col­lec­tive, in Lima. We each chose one of our fam­ily val­ues and painted the words – I did “pa­tience” (7) …

Food and mu­sic are my big­gest loves. We have speak­ers in ev­ery room of the house, a vin­tage turntable, Sonos, and dig­i­tal ra­dio. I live in deep west Lon­don, but lis­ten to songs from the deep An­des.

I of­ten buy mu­si­cally themed cook­ing uten­sils: tweez­ers that look like mi­cro­phones, wooden spoons that look like drum­sticks …

And I have a big col­lec­tion of mu­sic posters and orig­i­nal pho­tog­ra­phy, mostly Peru­vian rock and roll. The Mano Ne­gra poster (8) is from a leg­endary con­cert from the 1980s.

I’ve stopped DJing, but you can still find me be­hind the decks in Ce­viche Old St on a Thurs­day night. I only col­lect 7-inches (9) th­ese days – all retro and ana­logue; warm crackly fun.

I also col­lect cook­books, both vin­tage and new. The Alice B Tok­las (10) con­tains some crazy recipes – sup­pos­edly the first recipe for hashish cake. She was a real bo­hemian. I found this copy in at the flea­mar­ket in Paris in Clig­nan­court, about 15 years ago. Weirdly, I was there again a few weeks ago. I walked in to an area packed with records, and on the turntable was play­ing Dis­coteca, a record I pro­duced.

I like to bring back lit­tle plates from my trav­els. I have my por­ridge ev­ery day in this beau­ti­fully hand­made brown one (11) – I got it from Mon­ica Al­paca’s res­tau­rant, the pi­can­te­ria La Nueva Palomino, in Are­quipa.

I had lunch at Jose Lu­jan’s res­tau­rant in Cuzco a year ago, and he gave me this rock salt (12) from Maras. About 500 peo­ple work that part of the Sa­cred Val­ley, each on their own lit­tle plot, ex­tract­ing salt by hand from the area where a small hot stream emerges from the earth. It’s such a poignant me­mento of our coun­try.

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