Grace Dent ‘By this time next year, you will be knee deep in repli­cants of Bright’s katsu sando’

The Guardian - Feast - - Feast -

Be­ing cool is a com­plex, mul­ti­fac­eted thing. I wrote a fort­night ago about Nep­tune in Blooms­bury, a restau­rant posited as the cap­i­tal’s new­est, coolest, pret­ti­est place to be tagged on In­sta­gram while pick­ing at eel carpac­cio. Bright, mean­while, in Lon­don Fields, is also very cool, but a com­pletely dif­fer­ent sub­sec­tion. Bright is chef-scene, ac­tual “foodie” cool. It is a stripped­back, semi-in­dus­trial, chicken liver ag­nolotti and bull’s heart toma­toes with mar­jo­ram type of cool. It’s a place hewn by young men – Liam Kelle­her, Phil Bracey and William Gleave – with the kind of hos­pi­tal­ity pedi­grees that cause earnest food blog­gers to clutch their faces like rapt Vic­to­rian cherubs.

I love scru­ti­n­is­ing the murky world of Lon­don restau­rant hype, be­cause noth­ing is more likely to make a man called Brian from Con­gle­ton bash out: “I don’t bloody care what Lon­don peo­ple think is cool! I just want my din­ner,” on his 14-inch Dell Lat­i­tude. But Brian, these things do mat­ter. By this time next year, you’ll be knee-deep in repli­cants of Bright’s katsu sando – panko’d pork cut­let and shred­ded cab­bage be­tween slices of white bread with a dol­lop of hot mus­tard.

Bright is the per­ma­nent fix­ture of the lauded P Franco, Hack­ney’s Food At­mos­phere Ser­vice 1 West­gate Street, Lon­don E8, 0203095 9407. Open Weds-Sun, 6pm10.30pm; Sat & Sun lunch, noon-3pm. About £30-35 a head plus drinks and ser­vice

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