Grace Dent ‘By this time next year, you will be knee deep in replicants of Bright’s katsu sando’
Being cool is a complex, multifaceted thing. I wrote a fortnight ago about Neptune in Bloomsbury, a restaurant posited as the capital’s newest, coolest, prettiest place to be tagged on Instagram while picking at eel carpaccio. Bright, meanwhile, in London Fields, is also very cool, but a completely different subsection. Bright is chef-scene, actual “foodie” cool. It is a strippedback, semi-industrial, chicken liver agnolotti and bull’s heart tomatoes with marjoram type of cool. It’s a place hewn by young men – Liam Kelleher, Phil Bracey and William Gleave – with the kind of hospitality pedigrees that cause earnest food bloggers to clutch their faces like rapt Victorian cherubs.
I love scrutinising the murky world of London restaurant hype, because nothing is more likely to make a man called Brian from Congleton bash out: “I don’t bloody care what London people think is cool! I just want my dinner,” on his 14-inch Dell Latitude. But Brian, these things do matter. By this time next year, you’ll be knee-deep in replicants of Bright’s katsu sando – panko’d pork cutlet and shredded cabbage between slices of white bread with a dollop of hot mustard.
Bright is the permanent fixture of the lauded P Franco, Hackney’s Food Atmosphere Service 1 Westgate Street, London E8, 0203095 9407. Open Weds-Sun, 6pm10.30pm; Sat & Sun lunch, noon-3pm. About £30-35 a head plus drinks and service