Grace Dent ‘I make the best of things by order­ing a bloody mary be­cause, by this stage, I am very con­fused’

The Guardian - Feast - - Feast -

It is a truth uni­ver­sally ac­knowl­edged that a Grade I-listed build­ing, and one with a fa­mous ar­chi­tect, must be in want of a good tea room. In Eal­ing, west Lon­don, the folk be­hind the re­cently re-loved walled kitchen gar­den within Pitzhanger Manor, built circa 1800, have aimed much higher than this.

Soane’s Kitchen is an el­e­gant, bright, airy, beau­ti­fully sit­u­ated space promis­ing break­fast, brunch, lunch and din­ner, all of which, the menu prom­ises, are so sea­son­ally sen­si­tive and eth­i­cally sourced that one as­cends spir­i­tu­ally to a higher plane merely by eat­ing its beans on toast. Sorry – its home­made, bloody mary-flavoured beans on He­done sour­dough, topped with a Breck­land Brown egg squeezed from the hind por­tions of an ec­static Nor­folk free-range chicken. In the even­ing, there’s the likes of tem­pura shrimp burger served on a squid ink­coloured bun, and gluten-free rump of Pa­ley Farm lamb with aubergine puree for £17.50, while your new po­ta­toes to go with that will cost an ex­tra £3.50.

The menu, filled with lab­neh, fo­cac­cia crisps, beef tartare and zero-waste chimichurri, re­minds me of that great Vic­to­ria Wood sketch where she takes her an­cient mum to a trendy or­ganic veg­e­tar­ian cafe and Food ○○○

At­mos­phere ○○○

Ser­vice ○○

Walpole Park, Mat­tock Lane, Lon­don W5, 0208579 2685. Open all week, Mon-Sat 8am10pm (10am Sat), Sun 10am-4pm. About £30 a head for three cour­ses à la carte, plus drinks and ser­vice

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