M&S, hand­crafted smoked ba­con,

The Guardian - G2 - - Food Taste Test -

240g, £3

Hot from the oven the fill­ing rises above the (sound, crisp, all-but­ter) pas­try as if puff­ing out its chest in pride, and with some jus­ti­fi­ca­tion. Be­neath that top crust (draped with ba­con rash­ers, beau­ti­fully browned; as at­trac­tive as the lac­quered in­te­rior of a play­boy’s yacht), you will find a fill­ing which, if lack­ing the del­i­cate fi­nesse of the great­est quiches, is bold and bal­anced in its gruyère-spiked flavours, evenly mined with sweet, smoky ba­con and con­fi­dently sea­soned with pep­per and nut­meg. It is, and this is not a given, tasty. 8/10

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