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is never the same two nights run­ning (loin of veni­son with prune and al­mond tagine, say, fol­lowed by black­berry jelly with quince, pear and lemon ver­bena ice-cream). And if the farm­house’s eight bed­rooms are a lit­tle dated, it’s surely more rea­son to jump out of bed and en­joy a lan­guorous break­fast.

• Dou­bles from £90 B&B, par­va­farm­

Eight Bath

A dose of re­strained, el­e­gant cool in the cen­tre of Bath, this res­tau­rant with rooms opened in Au­gust with an idio­syn­cratic pitch: eight bed­rooms, and eight medium-sized plates on the din­ner menu (choose two or three from a se­lec­tion that might in­clude saf­fron monk­fish velouté with mus­sels and red mul­let, £13.75; or mille­feuille of cheese-in­fused po­lenta with pan­fried ch­est­nuts, mush­rooms, spinach and sage beurre blanc, £10.50). Throw in a can­dlelit bar with emerald, navy and glint­ing cop­per and you have the per­fect glam­orous ur­ban re­treat.

• Dou­bles from £125 B&B, eight­in­

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