CONTINI GEORGE STREET
George Street, Edinburgh (0131 225 1550) There is a realisation that eating habits are changing. The Italian full Monty, though a deeply attractive proposition, is rarely a realistic undertaking. The new a la carte menu at Contini George Street reflects the zeitgeist. Only two pasta dishes and one risotto are on offer. The “primi” showcase highquality meats and cheeses given modern treatment. So our velvety, rosemarycured, Tuscan lardo came with creamed Italian goat’s cheese, luscious thymeroasted grapes and crumbled biscotti; original and not expensive at £6. Novel combinations give a nod to “clean eating”. Raw cauliflower shavings come doused with porcini and lemon oil, under texturally complementary breadcrumbs and crumbled Venetian spiced walnuts. Paper-thin raw fennel provides a crisp structure that supports slices of soft pink-dashed Tarocco orange and fat mauve-green olives, all drizzled with acacia honey.