the cream of cui­sine

The Jewish Chronicle - - TRAVEL -

vos rancheros. Best of all, Hugo takes dogs, be­ing that half the joy of a Cor­nish hol­i­day is tak­ing the pooch to run on the beach in win­ter.

The third won­der­ful break­fast in Corn­wall comes from a kitchen which for years has also been serv­ing won­der­ful din­ners — the de­light­fully old-fashoned Bu­dock Vean Ho­tel, tucked away be­tween Truro and Fal­mouth on the Helford River. It also takes dogs and fields a spa, golf-course and swim­ming pool com­plex.

Al­though it seems anachro­nis­tic to de­mand jack­ets and ties for din­ner in the coun­try, when you see the mag­i­cal, star­lit am­bi­ence of the ho­tel’s din­ing room by night, it pos­i­tively de­mands dress­ing up for five-course feasts which in­clude su­perbly-cooked fish choices and lo­cal cheeses from a nearby mas­ter fro­mager, not to men­tion de­li­cious starters, soups and desserts. The golf course is or­gan­i­cally man­aged, and non-golfers will en­joy the huge pool or a soak in the out­door hot tub over­look­ing mag­nif­i­cent val­ley scenery. Well-de­liv­ered spa treat­ments are on hand, and there is yoga ev­ery Mon­day evening.

While you might never feel like leav­ing the premises, with its su­per-comfy rooms and lovely walks, there are some won­der­ful gar­dens in this neck of the woods, of which Tre­bah — con­sid­ered one of the world’s 80 finest — is an ab­so­lute par­adise: a jun­gle gar­den built into a ravine, where hy­drangeas, ferns and gi­ant rhubarb seem to grow right out of the river-bed, and you can walk all the way down to the crash­ing At­lantic waves.

Nearby Helford Pas­sage is a de­light­ful lit­tle vil­lage right on the river, with a foot­path lead­ing to a se­cluded beach. And as Bu­dock Vean ac­com­mo­dat­ingly also ac­cepts ca­nines, you can en­joy the whole ex­pe­ri­ence with your dog.

Bu­dock Vean is less than 15 min­utes’ drive from Fal­mouth and of­ten over­looked by vis­i­tors head­ing for the beaches. But its Na­tional Mar­itime Mu­seum alone makes it a worth­while ex­cur­sion.

One of the quirkier, but most charm­ing, ex­hibits is a re­cre­ation of the Old Cu­rios­ity Shop which once stood in the town’s mar­ket street, owned by one John Bur­ton, a lo­cal char­ac­ter who claimed he could sell “any­thing from a mon­key to a pul­pit”.

While the shop closed 100 years ago soon af­ter Bur­ton’s death, there are many more quirky and off­beat shops to en­joy in Fal­mouth, as be­fits a town which is home to a ma­jor art col­lege, and a good art gallery.

De­spite the rather dreary Vic­to­rian build­ing, it is a mul­ti­ple award nom­i­nee, with some im­por­tant works by Burne-Jones, Mun­nings and other Bri­tish artists.

This win­ter’s ex­hi­bi­tion, Fish & Ships prom­ises mas­ter­pieces from the New­lyn School which evoca­tively doc­u­mented Corn­wall’s 19th cen­tury fish­ing in­dus­try.

Fal­mouth is also the home of Pen­den­nis Cas­tle, built by Henry VIII to help for­tify Bri­tain’s south coast and scene of a ma­jor Civil War siege, and nearby are sev­eral out­stand­ing gar­dens, in­clud­ing Glen­dur­gan which, like Tre­bah, is con­sid­ered one of the great sub­trop­i­calplant­ing es­tates which Corn­wall’s mild cli­mate sup­ports.

Rick Stein’s Seafood Restau­rant on Pad­stow Har­bour

Cus­tard, an­other of Pad­stow’s culi­nary won­ders

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