JEWISH PARIS NATALIE KEN­NARD

The Jewish Chronicle - - Life/travel -

WITH 310,000 Jews, Paris has the third largest Jewish pop­u­la­tion in the world, af­ter Is­rael and the US. There are awe­some shuls, a vi­brant Jewish cul­ture and plenty of su­per­vised restau­rants.

But how do you find it all if you are vis­it­ing for a week­end. A good start­ing point is Les Ailes, the won­der­ful Sephardi restau­rant in rue Richer in the 9th ar­rondisse­ment. Pre-pay for your Fri­day night din­ner and Shab­bat lunch and en­joy the works: white linen, chal­lah, wine and more cour­ses than you can eat.

You’ll find many kosher restau­rants as well as ho­tels of­fer­ing kosher break­fasts. One, Ho­tel Tour­ing, is op­po­site Tem­ple Buf­fault, a vast tra­di­tional syn­a­gogue dat­ing from 1877. An­other lo­cal shul is Tem­ple Vic­toire, on rue de la Vic­toire. Also called the Roth­schild shul, the chief rab­bis of Paris and France have their own seats on the bimah.

The Marais, in the 4th ar­rondisse­ment, is trendy and up­mar­ket. Its nar­row streets are crammed with de­signer bou­tiques, cafés and BCBG Parisians. At its heart is rue des Rosiers, with its kosher delis, restau­rants and shops stocked with re­li­gious arte­facts. Nearby, is the Holo­caust Memo­rial, com­mem­o­rat­ing July 16 1942 when French po­lice ar­rested most of the city’s Jews.

We rented an apart­ment here and, with Les Ailes too far for our seven-yearold to walk, we ate Shab­bat meals in our apart­ment.

We at­tended Shab­bat ser­vices in a sec­ond-floor apart­ment on the Place des Vos­ges, the beau­ti­ful 17th-cen­tury square of ar­caded build­ings sur­round­ing a gar­den with foun­tains. On Shab­bat af­ter­noon, we stum­bled across Musée Car­navalet, which, like many of

Bread, baguettes and bagels: lunch on the move means you don’t miss any of the sights

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