The Jewish Chronicle - - Life/food -

DAVID Levin is a vi­sion­ary in the hos­pi­tal­ity world. He proved ho­tel restau­rants could be­come din­ing desti­na­tions when he opened London’s Cap­i­tal Ho­tel 40 years ago. Ten years later he shocked his French neigh­bours by grow­ing grapes or­gan­i­cally in his Loire vine­yard.

He re­luc­tantly built his own win­ery “be­cause the Co-op was tak­ing our won­der­ful grapes and mix­ing them with in­fe­rior ones”. It was de­signed in Australia and shipped to France pieceby-piece, to­gether with an Aus­tralian-trained wine­maker so he could use wine-mak­ing meth­ods more com­mon to Australia and other New World coun­tries.

Now David and his Aus­tralian wife, Lynne, make New World-style wine us­ing tra­di­tional or­ganic agri­cul­ture in the Touraine area of the Loire Val­ley.

There are three price points, but the sig­na­ture Levin la­bel rep­re­sents the best value, at around £12 per bot­tle. With hints of pink grape­fruit, the 2008 (Har­rods or Vir­gin Wines) makes a per­fect part­ner for as­para­gus, goat’s cheese or poached fish with a but­tery sauce.

It is worth vis­it­ing the Levin Ho­tel, next to the Cap­i­tal in Knights­bridge, to taste the 2006 they still serve in their wine bar. Un­like most sau­vi­gnons blancs, which tra­di­tion­ally do not keep well, this is rich

The top of the range Mis­ter L 2009 is an­other full-flavoured, lux­u­ri­ous sau­vi­gnon blanc — avail­able by sin­gle bot­tle from Vir­gin at £23.99. Only made from ex­cep­tional vin­tages, this has some oak, and is long, rich and creamy. The Levins also make red and rose from gamay, some of which have won awards.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.