WINE RICHARD EHRLICH
IT is wintry outside. Not long ago, London glowed under a heatwave. The unpredictability makes it hard to dress. Should I wear shorts or an overcoat? Or both?
With wine, adapting to the seasons is less important. As regular readers of this column know, I do not subscribe to the red-in-winter/ white-in-summer orthodoxy. I drink everything, all year round. And that includes the poor relation of the wine world, rosé.
How can I say “poor relation”, when rose has grown tremendously in popularity over recent years? OK, the growth has tailed off in the last year or two — 2010-2011 saw a small decline — but it still accounts for something like 11 or 12 per cent of UK wine sales.
Yet rosé is still viewed by some as vinous Ribena. And needless to say, some is guilty as charged. But when it is good, it is very good, and makes a fine partner for a wide range of foods. When holidaying in the Languedoc, as I do most summers, I drink rosé with nearly every meal, whether fish, fowl or red meat.
What makes good