WINE RICHARD EHRLICH

The Jewish Chronicle - - Life/food -

IT is win­try out­side. Not long ago, London glowed un­der a heat­wave. The un­pre­dictabil­ity makes it hard to dress. Should I wear shorts or an over­coat? Or both?

With wine, adapt­ing to the sea­sons is less im­por­tant. As reg­u­lar readers of this col­umn know, I do not sub­scribe to the red-in-win­ter/ white-in-sum­mer or­tho­doxy. I drink ev­ery­thing, all year round. And that in­cludes the poor re­la­tion of the wine world, rosé.

How can I say “poor re­la­tion”, when rose has grown tremen­dously in pop­u­lar­ity over re­cent years? OK, the growth has tailed off in the last year or two — 2010-2011 saw a small de­cline — but it still ac­counts for some­thing like 11 or 12 per cent of UK wine sales.

Yet rosé is still viewed by some as vi­nous Ribena. And need­less to say, some is guilty as charged. But when it is good, it is very good, and makes a fine part­ner for a wide range of foods. When hol­i­day­ing in the Langue­doc, as I do most sum­mers, I drink rosé with nearly ev­ery meal, whether fish, fowl or red meat.

What makes good

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