GET­TING THERE

The Jewish Chronicle - - LIFE -

was promised that was to come. We an­chored in a quiet bay and lunch was served.

Ev­ery meal started with a se­lec­tion of Turk­ish sal­ads and dips, enough to fill you up, if you so de­sire. It’s a healthy way of eat­ing and there’s al­ways fish to fol­low.

Next­day­wean­chored in Ha­mam Bay, close to Fethiye, where the ru­ins emerg­ing from the sea are re­puted to be the site of Cleopa­tra’s Turk­ish bath.

In fact, the Egyp­tian queen is as­so­ci­ated with many places on this coast, but it still makes a de­light­ful spot for snorkelling. The turquoise sea is crys­tal clear, fish dart be­tween the an­cient stones, and there’s even the prom­ise of tur­tle sight­ing.

The af­ter­noon brought a light breeze so Cap­tain Hakan made the most of it and sailed west to­wards Dalyan. Around five knots was the most the boat could man­age in those con­di­tions, but it was enor­mously peace­ful with­out the sound of the en­gines. Morn­ing brought us to the an­cient sea port of Kaunos, dat­ing back to the 10th century. It’s been oc­cu­pied

‘YOU HAVE TO BE COV­ERED IN THE STINKY MUD BE­FORE YOU CAN SOAK IN THE WA­TER’

by the Per­sians, Greeks and Ro­mans and was fi­nally aban­doned in the 15th century be­cause of malaria.

Over the years, the har­bour silted up and was colonised by reeds, an ideal breed­ing ground for mos­qui­toes. We boarded a boat to visit the 5,000-seater Ro­man am­phithe­atre and the re­mains of a mas­sive bath com­plex. High above the Dalyan River were rock tombs with fa­cades carved into the moun­tain to re­sem­ble Hel­lenis­tic tem­ples, com­plete with Io­nian pil­lars. This is a fer­tile val­ley, with large groves of or­anges, lemons, wal­nuts, pomegranates and hazel­nuts while Grey Mul­let and Sea Bream are plen­ti­ful in the river. CHAR­TERS: CARPE Diem 1 of­fers pri­vate char­ters sail­ing out of Bo­drum, Mar­maris and Go­cek along the Turk­ish coast or Rhodes and Kos. It op­er­ates April – Novem­ber with lead in prices from £8,000 in­clu­sive for seven nights, but shorter breaks are pos­si­ble. Sim­i­lar 5* smaller & larger boats are avail­able. In­clu­sive rates for up to nine guests cover meals and soft drinks, air­port trans­fers, speed­boat and wa­ter­sports equip­ment, chef and crew ser­vices (flights, speed­boat fuel and al­co­hol are not in­cluded. A wine list is of­fered, or stocked to guests’ own pref­er­ence) www.dream­char­ters.co.uk FLY: Monarch Air­lines flies to Dala­man from Lon­don Gatwick, Lu­ton, Birm­ing­ham, Leeds Brad­ford and Manch­ester. www.monarch.co.uk

Dalyan is a pleas­ant fish­ing vil­lage but the big tourist at­trac­tions are the mud baths, fed by sul­phurous vol­canic springs. The min­er­als are meant to be good for your skin so it’s nec­es­sary to cover yourself all over and stand in the sun un­til it dries. Only then are you per­mit­ted to be hosed down and soak in the warm wa­ters.

We wound our way back to the sea through a labyrinth of reeds to emerge at the rear of Iz­tuzu Beach, bet­ter known as Tur­tle Beach. Log­ger-

Right: Lykian tem­ple tombs cut out of the rock face above the Dalyan river at the an­cient city of Kaunos

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