Chip­ping­in­with­some up­scale fish

The Jewish Chronicle - - JC SPECIAL - BY VIC­TO­RIA PREVER The fish, the fritters, the easy ser­vice are Syd­ney things

ANEW WAVE of fish and chip eater­ies is o f f e r i n g some­thing j us t a l i t t l e bit dif­fer­ent. Philip Ken­dall has brought a taste of Syd­ney fish and chips to Lure Kitchen in Dart­mouth Park, where he’s been trad­ing for just over a year.

“I’ve im­proved the model by bring­ing it into the 21st cen­tury,” says Ken­dall. “I’ve changed the menu, added ta­ble ser­vice, and the look and feel of where you are eat­ing is like nowhere else.”

Lure Fish Kitchen is a small cor­ner unit with a take­away counter and 20 or so cov­ers. The dé­cor is mod­ern but util­i­tar­ian, with wooden ta­bles and bare brick and white-tiled walls.

Ken­dall, whose fam­ily took him to live in Syd­ney when he was three, spent 23 years there be­fore re­turn­ing with­hiswife­to­livein north-west Lon­don.

“There is a big Syd­ney in­flu­ence — from the grilled fish and mari­nades plus the potato fritters to the lights, mu­sic and easy ser­vice style, all of which are Syd­ney things.” Ken­dall did his chef’s ap­pren­tice­ship at Syd­ney’s Opera House and then cooked in var­i­ous res­tau­rants in the city’s Dar­linghurst and City ar­eas. He came here in 2002 and cooked for var­i­ous cater­ing com­pa­nies be­fore tak­ing a role in the di­rec­tors’ din­ing room at Marks and Spencer, where he su­per­vised all their events.

He spent 2012-3 get­ting Lure off the ground and is the chef-owner, mak­ing ev­ery bit of food he serves him­self. “It’s my own lit­tle baby,” he says.

The food there is ut­terly de­li­cious, with a heavy dose of South-East Asian fu­sion, typ­i­cal of a Syd­ney palate. On the

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