Chippinginwithsome upscale fish
ANEW WAVE of fish and chip eateries is o f f e r i n g something j us t a l i t t l e bit different. Philip Kendall has brought a taste of Sydney fish and chips to Lure Kitchen in Dartmouth Park, where he’s been trading for just over a year.
“I’ve improved the model by bringing it into the 21st century,” says Kendall. “I’ve changed the menu, added table service, and the look and feel of where you are eating is like nowhere else.”
Lure Fish Kitchen is a small corner unit with a takeaway counter and 20 or so covers. The décor is modern but utilitarian, with wooden tables and bare brick and white-tiled walls.
Kendall, whose family took him to live in Sydney when he was three, spent 23 years there before returning withhiswifetolivein north-west London.
“There is a big Sydney influence — from the grilled fish and marinades plus the potato fritters to the lights, music and easy service style, all of which are Sydney things.” Kendall did his chef’s apprenticeship at Sydney’s Opera House and then cooked in various restaurants in the city’s Darlinghurst and City areas. He came here in 2002 and cooked for various catering companies before taking a role in the directors’ dining room at Marks and Spencer, where he supervised all their events.
He spent 2012-3 getting Lure off the ground and is the chef-owner, making every bit of food he serves himself. “It’s my own little baby,” he says.
The food there is utterly delicious, with a heavy dose of South-East Asian fusion, typical of a Sydney palate. On the