Salmon-sated? Cast your net wider

The Jewish Chronicle - - KOSHER - BY VIC­TO­RIA PREVER

IT’S EASY to get stuck i n a salmon rut. Whether you’re cook­ing for one, for a fam­ily or for a Fri­day-night clan gath­er­ing, salmon is a peren­nial haimishe favourite. How­ever, it’s not the most cost-ef­fec­tive fish in the sea (or the fish­mon­ger’s icy dis­play) so it might be time to dip your toe into the sea and give an­other fishy friend an out­ing. I asked a cou­ple of north-west Lon­don kosher fish­mon­gers what al­ter­na­tive fish might be rea­son­able (and sus­tain­able) at present.

“Ob­vi­ously, be­ing kosher, you’re a lit­tle bit lim­ited but there’s lots of nice things around at the mo­ment,” says Do­minic Cor­ney of JA Cor­ney in Tem­ple For­tune.“Win­ter­time is great for fish. They love cold wa­ter and eat a bit more to keep warm, so are nice and fleshy.”

Cor­ney also rec­om­mends her­rings, which, he says, are just com­ing into sea­son and are good value at £4-£5 per kg.

“Gurnard are also lovely and in sea­son. Larger gurnards are great for casseroles as they have nice, firm, white fil­lets and taste a bit like Dover sole. It’s an English fish, so it comes from lo­cal wa­ters and there is an abun­dance of them.”

Ac­cord­ing to Cor­ney, sar­dines are also plen­ti­ful and pop­u­lar: “Peo­ple are wary of the bones but we can fil­let them and, if you grill the sar­dines, any tiny lit­tle bones re­main­ing will crisp up, so you can eat them.”

Moishi Schmahl at Nat Jacobs, in Edg­ware, sug­gests the priced rain­bow trout, sar­dines and mack­erel as cost ef­fec­tive fish worth try­ing at the mo­ment.

The rich­ness of rain­bow trout works well with slightly acidic sauces and sal­sas. Try grilling it and serv­ing with the ca­per brown but­ter.

For a cou­ple of serv­ings, heat 30g of but­ter in a small pan un­til the solids in the bot­tom of the pan turn light brown and start to smell nutty — watch it care­fully once it starts brown­ing, as it can quickly burn.

Once it has browned, chuck in a ta­ble­spoon of lemon juice (care­ful, it might spit), a ta­ble­spoon each of chopped pars­ley and of chopped ca­pers. Pour over the grilled rain­bow trout fil­lets.

Kip­pers and mack­erel are also quick, easy and sus­tain­able. Serve with a poached egg, or flaked into leafy green sal­ads, rice sal­ads or kedgeree. Def­i­nitely not just break­fast fare.

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