Nigel Slater

The Observer Food Monthly - - CONTENTS -

Chefs con­tinue to in­trigue and amaze us, but what fas­ci­nates me just as much (more, per­haps) is the food we cook at home. The ev­ery­day, es­sen­tial sus­te­nance we make for our­selves and those we love: an early meal for the kids; a metic­u­lously planned cel­e­bra­tion din­ner; a slightly pissed mid­night fridge raid.

I am clearly not alone. The in­ter­est in cook­books by home cooks is heart­warm­ing, and they are of­ten the books whose spines are in tat­ters and whose pages are smudged with the ghosts of din­ners gone by.

Na­dine Levy Redzepi was an ac­com­plished cook long be­fore she met her hus­band, René, and she con­tin­ues to cook ev­ery day for her fam­ily in Den­mark. Her col­lec­tion of recipes, pub­lished next month, is prac­ti­cal, ut­terly tempt­ing and qui­etly beau­ti­ful. In this is­sue, we of­fer a taster from her book in­clud­ing mus­sels with chorizo and Dan­ish ap­ple dessert.

I’m sure I am not the only per­son to have spot­ted cou­ples in restau­rants spend­ing more time on their phones than talk­ing to one another. Is it pos­si­ble, I won­der, to gauge the state of a re­la­tion­ship by ob­serv­ing a cou­ple’s at­ti­tude to eat­ing and cook­ing? We like to give food for thought, so this month we have Kath­leen Al­cott’s il­lu­mi­nat­ing piece about cou­ples, their food and their cook­ing.

We also ex­plore the work of Asma Khan and her team at Dar­jeel­ing Ex­press. What makes some­one take the jump from study­ing con­sti­tu­tional law to run­ning a sup­per club and then to open­ing a restau­rant? A restau­rant that is now break­ing the mould – spe­cial­is­ing in In­dian home-cook­ing, pre­pared by an all-woman team of cooks, none of whom has cooked pro­fes­sion­ally be­fore.

We also have dancer/chore­og­ra­pher Akram Khan, Lemn Sis­say, Jay Rayner and, joy of joys, Grace Dent eat­ing pizza.

RASP­BERRY AP­PLE PAS­TRIES, SEE PAGE 20

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