Wi­nesWin of thet week

Ger­manGerma off-dry ries­lingsries­lin r and by winesw them. in­spired

The Observer Magazine - - Food & Drink - By B David Wil­liams @Davey­daibach

Dr Loosen Ürziger Würz­garten Ries­ling Kabi­nett, Mosel Ger­many 2017 £15.99, Waitrose

Could C ld a style l of f wine that has been con­sid­ered ter­mi­nally un­fash­ion­able for much of my winedrink­ing life be about to make a come­back? The style I’m talk­ing about, off-dry Ger­man ries­ling, cer­tainly has some at­tributes that fit the drink­ing zeit­geist. It is nat­u­rally low in al­co­hol (of­ten lower than 10%); it has a light­ness of touch which makes it match well with del­i­cately tex­tured food, such as sushi, dim sum and ve­gan-friendly green veg­etable and herb-based dishes; and it has just enough sweet­ness to cope with chilli or gin­ger spic­ing. All without los­ing, in the best ex­am­ples, an ounce of flavour, and al­ways with a mir­ror-in-sun­light burst of acid­ity. With its juicy ex­otic fruit and sub­tle spici­ness, Dr Loosen’s lat­est pris­tine vin­tage pro­vides a blue­print for the style.

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