WinesWin of thet week
GermanGerma off-dry rieslingsrieslin r and by winesw them. inspired
Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Mosel Germany 2017 £15.99, Waitrose
Could C ld a style l of f wine that has been considered terminally unfashionable for much of my winedrinking life be about to make a comeback? The style I’m talking about, off-dry German riesling, certainly has some attributes that fit the drinking zeitgeist. It is naturally low in alcohol (often lower than 10%); it has a lightness of touch which makes it match well with delicately textured food, such as sushi, dim sum and vegan-friendly green vegetable and herb-based dishes; and it has just enough sweetness to cope with chilli or ginger spicing. All without losing, in the best examples, an ounce of flavour, and always with a mirror-in-sunlight burst of acidity. With its juicy exotic fruit and subtle spiciness, Dr Loosen’s latest pristine vintage provides a blueprint for the style.