Can­tele Prim­i­tivo, Sa­lento, Puglia

Italy 2016 £9.95, £ Tan­ners Wines; Ar­mit Wines

The Observer Magazine - - Food & Drink -

As is the case in much of south­ern Italy’s wine lands, Puglian prim­i­tivo has vastly im­proved in the past cou­ple of decades. It was once the case that the va­ri­ety – and other lo­cals such a as ne­groa­maro and nero di troia – was lost i in cheap, mass-pro­duced bot­tles. Th­ese d days, fas­tid­i­ous pro­duc­ers are prov­ing its w worth, mak­ing wines that can age as well as s some of Cal­i­for­nia’s top zin­fan­dels. Among m my favourites are Fat­alone Prim­i­tivo Gioia d del Colle, Puglia 2015 (£11.95, Don Veeto), a nat­u­ral, bio­dy­namic take on prim­i­tivo with a lips­mack­ing sweet-sour qual­ity that is so o of­ten the hall­mark of the best Ital­ian wines, a as well as lay­ers of red and black cherry and a bakewell tart nut­ti­ness; and the Can­tele f fam­ily’s su­per-suave bot­tling from the S Sa­lento penin­sula (the heel of Italy’s boot) w with its easy fresh plum and mocha charm.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.