Noth­ing run of the Mill about Epic place

The Peterborough Evening Telegraph - - Eating Out - By Brad Barnes Fol­low me on twit­ter @PTbrad­barnes

Ihave al­ways loved my lit­tle trips out into Rut­land - be­cause more of­ten than not you are go­ing to stum­ble on a lit­tle gem of a place to eat and drink.

In fact we passed a cou­ple of well known ones - in Ex­ton and Whitwell - en route to our des­ti­na­tion - and an­other great find - the Mill Street Pub and Kitchen in Oakham.

It’s an old and im­pos­ing build­ing in the nar­row town cen­tre street but gives noth­ing away as to what lies in­side af­ter a huge re­fur­bish­ment prior to its open­ing six or seven weeks ago as part of the now four-strong Epic Pubs group..

The main drink­ing area is com­fort­able, there’s a lovely lit­tle snug and a stun­ning pri­vate din­ing room. Be­hind the bar lies the main din­ing area set off by a newly built con­ser­va­tory where we rested our­selves - nice and bright but not to hot on a late sum­mer’s af­ter­noon.

The menu is clas­sic gas­tro pub with some nice lit­tle touches - pick­led shal­lots and chest­nuts as a side or­der for in­stance, or a great sand­wich se­lec­tion fea­tur­ing con­fit duck and hoi sin, Ori­en­tal salad or maybe crispy cod cheeks with cur­ried cu- cum­ber ri­ata.

No grum­bles with the choice of starters, in­clud­ing the duck Scotch egg on the spe­cials board.

I ex­pected a big burst of flavour from my braised beef cheeks and I wasn’t dis­ap­pointed; ab­so­lutely lovely. Three hearty chunks of meat on a big (for a starter) bed of sal­sify and wild mush­room risotto which was very en­joy­able with tasty ar­ti­choke crisps (£7.50) .

Donna, mean­while, adored the gin-cured trout (from Rut­land Wa­ter, nat­u­rally); a great fresh-tasting flavour with a nice beet­root re­moulade and fiery horse­rad­ish mousse (£6.50).

Both nicely pre­sented (I did like the crock­ery), a ter­rific start, and things con­tin­ued in the same vein with the mains,

My rolled lamb shoul­der (the best cut imo) was di­vine - no fat or gris­tle just beau­ti­ful tasting dark meat, moist and ten­der.

It came with a well sea­soned potato ter­rine, un­usual but rather mor­ish curry mayo and bok choi (£16.50)..

And across the ta­ble a lovely piece of pan fried hake, on a de­li­cious chorizo and Bor­lotti bean stew with sam­phire and mus­sels. A mouth-wa­ter­ing com­bi­na­tion (£16.75).

The ser­vice was re­laxed but at­ten­tive mak­ing for the most en­joy­able lunch for some time.

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