Slovenia’s whites reflect its melting pot wine culture

Imagine the beautiful scenery of Switzerland, a touch of rustic Italian charm and a thrilling selection of racy, minerally, dry white wines bearing close resemblance to New Zealand’s vivid wine styles. Put all this together and you have Slovenia, a forgotten country when it comes to UK wine drinkers. That’s because there are just a handful of Slovenian wines on our shelves – and those that are here are not cheap – but it is an interesting wine country for those looking for a change. For anyone seeking an interesting wine holiday, it is also one of the most beautiful and prosperous Balkan countries I have visited – the picturesque medieval town of Piran on Slovenia’s Mediterranean coast was my particular favourite.

There is a melting pot of cultures here, bordering four countries: Italy (to the west), Austria (north), Croatia (south) and Hungary (north east) – all influence Slovenian wine styles.

Slovenia was the first Yugoslav country to declare independence in 1991. Since then, it has revitalised its wine industry, shaking off its massmarket Lutomer and Laski riesling image, improving the quality of its 25,000 hectares of vineyards – ready to offer something vibrant, refreshing and new.

Each of its three distinct wine regions are influenced by neighbours. Primorska on Slovenia’s western border, by north east Italy and the Mediterranean. Posavje in the south east, by neighbouring Croatia, and Podravje in the far north east by Austria.

Today, Primorska is the most dynamic with a host of international grapes such as sauvignon blanc and chardonnay to pinot gris grown in the rolling foothills. But the more interesting wines come from native grape, ribolla gialla, an ancient variety dating back to 1289. Ribolla almost disappeared after phylloxera, but is now being revived on Slovenia’s best slopes on the Goriska hills in Brda, one of Primorska’s four zones.

Inland, with a more continental climate, is Slovenia’s smallest and most traditional region, Posavje, along the Sava river near Croatia. Most of its light ‘cvicek’, low alcohol spritzy reds, are drunk locally along with Posavje’s sharp whites and earthy fizz.

Thirty years ago Slovenia’s largest and most easterly region, Podravje, was its best – but it rested on its laurels with volumes of Laski rizling. Now, in the Stajerska zone of Podravje along the Drava river, sauvignon blanc, furmint (called sipon) and ‘real’ riesling (called rizling) are being revived by new dynamic wineries like Verus Vinogradi, who have taken over an old ex-state winery in Ormoz on the northern Croatian border. Further north, nearer the Austrian border, the historic Dveri-pax winery is another of Slovenia’s best.

In the north east corner, just across the border from Austria’s Burgenland, is the Prekmurje zone of Podravje. This is the home of vivid, dry, limey rizling, botrytised sweet dessert wines and even ice wine.

Crisp dry whites are what Slovenia does best – so no surprise that all the Slovenian wines available in the UK are white.

Primorska, Slovenia: Krasno Sauvignon Blanc/ Ribolla Gialla 2016

From one of Slovenia’s leading co-operatives in Brda, in Slovenia’s most westerly region neighouring north east Italy. Fresh, appley aromas, hints of green fruit flavours with herby spicy undertones. If you normally enjoy New Zealand sauvignon blanc, this unusual crisp, lean, dry blend might well appeal. Great value too, compared to Kiwi whites.

£7.99/£8.99, Majestic Wine

Podravje, Slovenia: Verus Dry Riesling 2015 Verus Vinogradi

One of the spiciest rieslings I have tasted. This calls itself dry but it has lime and floral notes and a lot of rich texture, lovely balance and flavour with a hint of sweetness. It’s made in north eastern Ormoz in the Podravje region by three friends (or ‘authors’ as they call themselves on the label) Danilo Snajder, Bozidar Grabovac and Rajko Zlicar who set up the impressive Verus range. Renski rizling is ‘real’ riesling – not Laski. £12.99-£13.50, www. therealwinecompany.com; Woodwinters, Edinburgh & Bridge of Allan

Pod ravje, slovenia: Sipon Furmint 2015 Dveri Pax

A delicate, steely, crisp, dry furmint from steep slopes in northern Slovenia, right on the southern Austrian border near Styria. Furmint is usually found in the Tokay region of Hungary, but in Slovenia it is more delicate, tasting more like sauvignon blanc with its juicy, zesty, green fruits. Dveri Pax are among the top wineries in the current Slovenian wine renaissance. £9.95, www. the wine society. com

Primorska, Slovenia: Gasper Pinot Grigio 2015

This is labelled pinot grigio, but it tastes more like an Alsace pinot gris than a crisp Italian pinot grigio. Our tasters loved the intense pineapple and grapefruit aromas and very rich textured palate with spicy cinnamon undertones. It’s produced from marl and sandstone terraced vineyards right on the north east Italian border, in Slovenia’s Goriska Brda by talented winemaker Darinko Ribolica. £12.99, Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh; Drinkmonger, Edinburgh & Pitlochry