The Scotsman

Hotel gives up Michelin star award

- By CHRIS GREEN

A Scottish hotel has said it is “walking away” from its Michelin star, claiming that the accolade has dented its profits and put off customers.

The owners of Boath House near Nairn said they did not expect to be included in the latest edition.

An award-winning Scottish country house hotel has said it is “walking away” from its Michelin star, claiming that the accolade has dented its profits and is discouragi­ng customers.

Boath House near Nairn has enjoyed a place in the coveted guide for almost ten years, but its owners said they did not expect to be included in the latest edition, due to be published next week. However, the hotel’s head chef said he had not been informed about the decision and was “shell shocked” when he heard that he was set to lose the award. Owners Don and Wendy Matheson said they wanted to “re-evaluate their relationsh­ip” with Michelin and hoped to encourage more local residents to visit the hotel and restaurant.

“Whilst we are extremely proud of the Michelin star we gained ten years ago and it undoubtedl­y enhanced our reputation, our restaurant has consistent­ly made a loss,” Mrs Matheson said. “We believe that the expectatio­ns from Michelin are at odds with achievable profit margins and put an enormous stress on a small family-run business like ours.”

Last week the celebrated French chef Sebastien Bras asked for his restaurant to be dropped from the guide, saying he disliked the “huge pressure” it placed on him and his staff.

Boath House, which has held a Michelin star since 2009, is a Georgian mansion set in 22 acres of parkland with an ornamental lake, streams and a walled garden dating back to around 1550.

Mr Matheson said the couple did not bear any “malice” towards the Michelin Guide, but were simply “walking away” from the idea of formal dining that it represente­d.

“We’re not being driven by anything other than what the customer wants,” he said.

The hotel is planning to open a more casual cafe in its walled garden next year, having already made changes to its dining room giving diners less expensive options.

The decision came after the resignatio­n of head chef Charlie Lockley six weeks ago. He is due to stop working at the hotel in February and said the owners’ decision had left him “really sore”.

“[A Michelin star] is what every chef aspires to. When I got it, it was a dream come true,” he said.

 ??  ?? Departing head chef Charlie Lockley ‘really sore’ over decision to lose Boath House’s Michelin star
Departing head chef Charlie Lockley ‘really sore’ over decision to lose Boath House’s Michelin star

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