The Scotsman

Champion pie puts traditiona­l recipe in frame

Leith butcher uses finest meat in winning pie

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Acrisp crust combined with the perfect ratio of meat and gravy has seen James Anderson butchers of Leith top 250 competitor­s to be crowned the 20172018 Scottish Craft Butchers Steak Pie Champion.

The hard work of the shop’s loyal staff to ensure customers enjoy the same traditiona­l recipe, week after week and year after year, sealed the deal, with James Anderson butchers proudly taking home the prize for best steak pie in Scotland.

“We try to do it the old-fashioned way,” says owner John Henderson, who has had the Great Junction Street butchers for around 30 years – although the Anderson name has been around for considerab­ly longer.

“We have time-tested recipes which we have used for 20 or 30 years and which we religiousl­y follow. It’s a consistent product.”

Henderson says he wasn’t put off by the prospect of a visit from a mystery shopper, which was part of the judging process to ensure the pies the entrants were selling their customers were of the same standard as those entered into the competitio­n.

“When I heard there was going to be a secret shopper I was quite happy with that. It was production pies that won it – products that I make every single day.”

He says the key is to know your suppliers and to keep the supply chain short. “We know where the beef comes from,” says Henderson. “I always say to people that you can get it cheaper but you can not get it any better.

“I can’t compete with the supermarke­ts on price so we have to offer people something special otherwise they wouldn’t come.”

The meat is aged properly before being turned into pies, sausages and a range of different cuts. “My men know exactly what to do,” says Henderson. “They take a great pride in what they do. That’s the way they – and I – have been trained.

“I have dealt with all my suppliers for years and I know I can rely on them.”

The award has certainly had a positive impact on sales – so much so that Henderson is looking at ways to increase his manufactur­ing capacity to keep up with demand.

“We have at least doubled the sales of steak pies and my total sales are up 35-40 per cent,” he says.

“Winning the award has done a huge amount for staff morale.”

With the busiest time of the year fast approachin­g, Henderson and his team have their work cut out. “We manufactur­e about 1,500lb of sausages a week and more at Christmas and New Year. We made 75,000 chipolatas at Christmas last year and the steak pie sales will certainly double.”

So what was it about James Anderson’s pie that impressed the judging panel of 24 experts, food writers and pie lovers?

“This one had to be the winner,” says judge Jon Wilkins of Abertay University.

“We felt that the crumbly pastry was the perfect attribute to this product, crisp but not dry or oily.

“The winning factor for us was the succulent nature and quality of the steak within the pie, including the steak to gravy ratio.

“We felt this pie reflected well on one of Scotland’s national dishes and we encourage all consumers to try this product.”

Usually, though, it’s Henderson’s grandchild­ren who are the judges of what tastes great: “My grandchild­ren are my quality control,” he says. “If they like it, then that’s good enough for me.”

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