Soar to new heights

A subtle overhaul at Gleneagles is bringing a buzz to the grand old lady of Scottish hospitality, writes Alison Gray

If you loved Helen Macdonald’s memoir of training a goshawk, H is for Hawk, then it won’t be the golf, or even the spa, that will provide the main attraction for you at Gleneagles. You’ll be down to the falconry school to learn more about eagles, hawks and falcons and if you’re lucky, get the chance to fly one. Hermione and Dumbledore – lots of the birds are named after Harry Potter characters – are often on display so you can see them up close, while the handlers explain the history of falconry, this ancient sport of kings.

The connection between bird and falconer goes back to Shakespeare’s time and beyond, which explains how words in common usage are derived from falconry. For example when a bird has eaten and doesn’t need to fly for food she is described as being “fed up”. When they spread their wings on the ground to conceal prey from prying eyes, it’s called mantling – from which we get mantlepiece.

We could have spent all day hanging out with these majestic birds, as well as their fun furry neighbours, the ferrets, but there is so much to do and see here, we reluctantly moved on to our next activity.

Since Ennismore, the property developer behind the Hoxton Hotel chain, took over ownership of Gleneagles in 2015 there has been a buzz of excitement about this grand old lady of Scottish hospitality. It’s clearly undergoing a period of investment with young manager Conor O’leary at the helm, fresh from Dubai. Traditions are being restored at the same time as innovations are being made, but loyal guests can rest easy as the heritage of the Gleneagles brand is at the heart of all the developments.

For instance, close examination of the original plans for the hotel revealed the location of an American Bar, which at some point became a forgotten about storage area. The space has been reclaimed and returned to its former glory, as a glamorous spot for a pre dinner cocktail. Baseball hats not allowed.

There’s a playfulness and exuberance to the hotel – revelling in its sporting heritage, last August the Glorious Gleneagles Grouse Race was revived for the first time in 30 years – with wild grouse from a local moor being raced from the hotel to London in time for supper to mark the Glorious Twelfth and the start of the shooting season for red grouse. A helicopter was drafted in to ensure the birds made it from field to fork in a time of 14 hours and

15 minutes. A target to beat this year. Since our visit the hotel has seen the opening of Bob & Cloche, a bespoke beauty destination reflecting the current trend for wellness and self care. A former gate house has been transformed into a boutique space offering treatments, manicures, pedicures and a hair salon. It’s perfect for bridal parties or girls’ weekends and it’s just a wonder they didn’t think of it before. Many of the 232 bedrooms and 27 suites have also been renovated in a style that mixes modern must-haves – digital radios and coffee machines – with a lavender and dove grey colour scheme, featuring flashes of elegant velvet, prints by Timorous Beasties and furnishings in a 1920s style.

And what of the dining offerings? There’s plenty on the menu, from light bites at newcomer Auchterarder 70, named after the hotel’s original phone number, to dinner at Andrew Fairlie’s two Michelin star restaurant with three courses for £110, which is booked separately.

The Strathearn is still a favourite among those with a big life event to celebrate. It seems right for

Clockwise from main: the falconry school at Gleneagles; the grounds of the hotel; the Century Bar

birthdays, engagements and wedding anniversaries to be marked in the grand suroundings of a traditional dining room with all the attendant bells and whistles, in this case silver trollies showcasing beef Wellington circulating the room, and the opportunity to have your dessert flambéd at your table. It’s dinner as theatre, and it’s a lot of fun.

However the new Birnam Brasserie offers a chic alternative to the more formal dining experience and frankly it’s something Gleneagles has been crying out for.

A light bright space has been created at the end of the shopping corridor and close to the spa, in a modern French bistro style, serving everything from avocado and toast for breakfast to seafood and champagne in the evening.

When it opened in 1924 Gleneagles was hailed as “a Riviera in the Highlands” and while that might imply continuous sunshine, another nick name, the “palace in the Glens” certainly rings true today.

The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire, tel: 01764 662231. Rates start from £275 per night based on two people sharing on a bed and breakfast basis. For more information and a list of Easter activities visit www.gleneagles.co.uk

The new Birnam Brasserie offers a chic alternative to the more formal dining experience