Croatia serves up variety and now better value
If you have holidayed on the Adriatic coast enjoying the sun, scenery and cities, you might well have discovered Croatia’s Italianate-style wines made from their native grapes – and hoped to find them back home.
Sadly, there is a still a dearth of UK retailers and supermarkets selling Croatian wines. Whilst Croatia is an inexpensive holiday destination, its wine prices are not cheap. It is largely thanks to enthusiastic wine importers Mark Roberts of Croatian Fine Wines and Trevor Long and Judith Burns of Pacta Connect, that we starting to see an influx of affordable wines filtering in from Istria and Dalmatia.
Of all the Balkan wine countries, Croatia has the most diversity and a treasure trove of native flavours.
White wines outnumber reds by 2:1 in Croatia. The most important white grape is grasevina grown in Slavonija near the Danube in eastern Croatia, which tastes like a light viognier, although it is known as welshriesling elsewhere in the world. More interesting is the malvazija istarska grape, which has great potential, offering freshness and a vibrant sea-breezy coastal character.
Croatian reds often remind me of northeast Italian reds with their sour cherry fruits, high acidity and tangy freshness. Terrano is often used to make lighter reds with merlot as a softener in the blend, but for more robust reds there is plavac mali and tribidrag, which is the same grape as zinfandel.
Interestingly, Croatia’s indigenous grapes, temperate climate and scenic beauty have attracted a British winemaker, ex-marks & Spencer and Harrods wine buyer Jo Ahearne MW. Ahearne fell in love with Hvar island and set up her own small winery on the island two years ago to exploit its native grapes. She now makes a spicy rosé from the darnekusa grape, a wild skins macerated white from kuc, bogdanusa and posip grapes and a plavac mali red – we hope to see them in the UK soon.
White Slavonija: Golden Valley Grasevina 2015 Vlado Krauthaker
Rich, textured, dry, weighty, honeyed grasevina grown in the hills of Kutjevo in south east Croatia; tastes like a mix between chardonnay and viognier.
£10, Marks & Spencer
Istria: Festigia Malvazija Istarska 2015 Vina Laguna
A very enticing crisp, dry malvazija with pear and apple notes and soft, succulent texture – a good introduction to the grape.
£10.95, Lea & Sandeman
Istria: ‘Alba’ Malvazija Istarska 2017 Matesovic
From top producer Matesovic; very aromatic, limey apricot flavours, refreshing minerality with an almondy twist to the finish. £13.50-£15, Beets, Leith; Bon Vivant Companion; Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh
Istria: Malvazija Istarska 2016 Vina Laguna
Light delicate example with floral notes, citrus flavours and a hint of sea-breezy character. A rather neutral example of malvazija, but easy drinking, refreshing and well-priced; would suit sauvignon blanc lovers.
£7.50, The Wine Society
Istria: Pinot Grigio 2016 Vina Laguna
Made by Milan Budinski who has trained in California, Chile and Argentina. An easy drinking, lightweight quaffer with a soft, fleshy ripeness.
£10.95, Lea & Sandeman
Istria: Malvazija Istarska Prestige 2016 Veralda
A refined example from one of Croatia’s largest wineries. Lots of tropical fruit ripeness, pithy citric fruits, fresh and vibrant. £12.60, www. croatianfinewines.com
Red Istria: Terra Rossa 2016 Vina Laguna
An exciting new bargain. This wonderful blend of merlot, teran and borgonja grapes has delicious plummy aromas, tangy sour cherry flavours and tart acidity. £7.95, www.thewinesociety.com
Istria: Merlot Superior 2012 Franc Arman
A much improved vintage from 2011, this 2012 has bags of lush, cherry fruits with cedary undertones and soft texture. £25, www.croatianfinewines.com
Dalmatia: Dingac 50 2012 Badel
Plavac mali is a relation of zinfandel (aka tribidrag). This plummy chocolate-flavoured red with its hint of sweetness and sleek silky tannins is at its best served with roast beef. £30, www.croatianfinewines.com
Istria: Teran 2015 Kabola
There are smoky tobacco aromas, rich red berry fruits, sharp acidity and firm tannins in this organic wine from Buje in the Momjan Valley in north west Istria; made from the ancient terrano grape. Would suit those who love Northern Rhône syrah. £23, www.croatianfinewines.com
Istria: Grimalda Red 2015 Matosevic
A fine, complex oaked predominantly merlot blend, with 20 per cent teran, made by Croatia’s wine guru Ivica Matosevic. Loved its cinnamon spice undertones, smooth texture, minerally backbone and sour cherry finish. Very Italianate. ■ £23.50, Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh