The Scotsman

A view to a thrill

Just a stone’s throw from the industrial Clyde, Gleddoch offered Kirsty Mcluckie a real surprise

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Gleddoch Hotel, Spa and Golf, near Langbank in Inverclyde, seems like it is in an unlikely place. Set high on a hillside above the Clyde, you drive along the rows of shipyards with cranes and warehouse buildings towering above you, before taking a sharp turn into a country road which heads upwards.

Within seconds you leave the industrial landscape behind and meander between fields before approachin­g the impressive gates of Gleddoch.

The main part of the hotel is a physically striking building too. It was built as the home of shipping baron, Sir William Lithgow, who made his fortune in the shipyards below.

The building is a beautiful Victorian Scots Baronial pile, which has been extended in recent years, but you don’t get a feel of how big it is at first.

Being given the key, we were told that the best way to get to our room would be to drive to the upper car park and it is only while doing this that we could see the accommodat­ion extending up the hill behind the original main building. It is all connected, but would have been a hike with bags, as we later found out when I foolishly decided to pop down to reception, via endless stairs.

The modern rooms are comfortabl­e and well equipped with a touch of luxury in the fittings. The hotel is four star, and a good standard.

The hotel’s Vista restaurant didn’t require a hike, being up our end of the building but I don’t think we appreciate­d how much the elevated situation adds to the outlook.

Walking in for an early evening meal, the sun had just gone down but stretching out before us was a stunning view in the gloaming.

Over the trees and fields below is the mighty Clyde estuary, with the added interest of passing boat traffic.

On the other side of the river the view frames Ben Lomond, which on our weekend had retained a dusting of snow on its top.

We ordered a gin and tonic each and sat gawping as the light faded.

Food at the hotel is good. There isn’t a huge choice which is always a good sign, and the dishes include a range of local meat, game and cheeses amongst choices which change daily.

Over the two nights, we enjoyed slow roasted medallions of beef in a red wine jus, creamy chicken liver pate, a perfectly cooked fillet of bream and delicately spiced gnocchi.

Breakfast was notable too, with enough options such as eggs benedict, kippers and porridge to momentaril­y tempt us from the full Scottish.

But only momentaril­y, as we were fuelling up for a full day’s exertions.

We wanted to explore the area and set off to find the Greenock Cut.

It is certainly worth seeking out. A circular walk over moorland and along a historic aqueduct which is now a designated ancient monument, the two-hour route isn’t too taxing as you drive up to the high start point and then stay high, but it affords more fantastic views over the Clyde and over to the hills and lochs of Argyll.

I also wanted to visit Newark Castle, as I’d driven past this oddity many times. Dating from the late 15th century, the fortified tower has seen history come and go.

It is currently dwarfed by Ferguson Shipbuilde­rs right next door, which rather thrillingl­y had the bow of a nearly complete vessel sticking out of its vast doors. Newark Castle is run by Historic Scotland and open to the public. A quick look at its metresthic­k walls convinces you that it will outlast us all.

It makes for a happy hour’s wandering about with pleasant and informativ­e staff and a closer up view of the river from its battlement­s.

For those who prefer to stay put, the hotel has an excellent Elemis spa. We indulged ourselves on our return with anti-aging facials which

Scots Baronial splendour: Gleddoch Hotel offers classic luxury and some outstandin­g views

actually did seem to iron out some of the accumulate­d wrinkles and I was impressed that the effects lasted long after I left.

The pool is a very good size and a beautiful sun lounge just off would have been a wonderful place to relax on a sunny day.

As for the golf, it seems impressive, even to a non golfer. The 18 hole course was built in 1974, and is widely regarded, unsurprisi­ngly, as being one of the most scenic in the west of Scotland. The club’s most famous visitor was Severiano Ballestero­s who hosted an event in 1985.

I’m sure he had a splendid time, but that is the thing with golf, I find. It ties up so much time you don’t get to discover what other delights might be on offer, which in such an interestin­g and unapprecia­ted spot, would be something of a shame.

The club’s most famous visitor was Severiano Ballestero­s in 1985

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